Wines from Home

the 2001 Rene Mure Gewurztraminer is a simple, easy wine... completly dry and full-bodied with lychee spiciness and richness that you would expect from an Alsace Gewurztraminer in a classic vintage. Not going to blow you away, but a very nice drink... The 1986 Chateau Talbot was without question the single best bottle of this St.-Julien 4th Growth that I've ever had. Very full and showing notes of cedar, tobacco, leather, graphite, cassis and black plum on the long, elegant finish. This wine went on and on forever... I was even more amazed this wine was great as the fill level was mid to top shoulder(!). I brought a backup of the 1989 Chateau Beychevelle, and this wine, while good, was like drinking water compared to the incredibly complex Talbot. Black plums, a little cedar, and black earth. This wine is rated higher by virtually everyone, but it was not showing its best today.

Nice Wines

The 1995 Chateau Talbot is showing very pretty... while I'd venture to guess it's not going to get much better than it is now, it should hold this peak for quite a while. Lots of cedar, tobacco, and black plums with cassis on the finish. A very, very nice wine. Tonight, the 1998 Ornellaia was showing so much better than the other night. This one had black plums, black currants, dried leaves, and tobacco, but the wood elements were not so overpowering. This is the 1998 Ornellaia that I knew... But I have to wonder about the significant bottle variation I've seen in this wine the last 4 times I've tasted it. What's going on? The 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie "La Landonne" is a blockbuster... massive in every sense of the word. One of the great Syrahs I've ever tasted. While a bit closed, the structure and the power were incredible. Notes of meat, bacon, black pepper, tar, tobacco, and black cherries. This wine is but a baby and will age for decades. While I'm sure this wine will be better at some point down the road, I would imagine the evolution will take at least a decade - too bad this was the only bottle. This shows why Guigal is the master of Cote-Rotie, and La Landonne may be the best of the three La-La's in 1999.

As a note, I continue to find myself drawn to these beautiful, Burgundy-like Cote-Roties of the Northern Rhone Valley. Like great Barolo and Barbaresco, these wines, though massive, have such finesse attached to their power, such elegance to balance out the otherwise incredible concentrations that they remind me of some of the great Burgundies I've ever tasted. The only thing they are missing is the haunting aspect of delicacy that a great Richebourg or La Tache possess - the fact that in one minute, these wines can turn from greatness to nothing in seconds. The Northern Rhones don't seem to have that... they only seem to become more alive. This is why I love wine...

Last Few Days

Tonight, the 1990 Dom Perignon "Oenetheque" (their version of RD) shows a gorgeous, classic Dom nose of hazelnuts with pretty brioche and yeast... Delicate and very much a finesse-driven wine. Apricots and pears mostly... a long, elegant finish. Very good, but not stunning... it's no 1988 Krug, for instance... Tuesday, the 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia is still shut... continue to give it time. The 1998 Ornellaia however, was completely and utterly... underwhelming. Yes, it has a long, balanced finish. Yes, it has vibrant acid and a pretty nose. What is so underwhelming about it? The fact that the wine is showing so much wood that it tastes like a 2x4!!! There is a little bit of fruit, but I'm amazed at what this wine has turned into in the last 12 months. I hope that this bottle was a freak, but I don't think so... I've never been all that impressed by it and wouldn't imagine it improving much.

Wowzers...

Just when you think it's safe to go back into the cellar... out come some old (and new) favorites. The 2004 Peter Michael "Le Cairriere" Chardonnay rocks... tons of baked apples, peaches, and apricots with a good bit of mineral elements creeping through the creamy finish. A fabulous bottle of California Chardonnay (tasted 3 bottles, all with similar notes). The 2003 Kosta Browne Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir is a rockstar... powerful, but with beautiful purity of fruit and fabulous balance. Red cherries, strawberries and plums screaming from the glass. This wine, I would imagine, has not settled down much since it was bottled. The 2002 Bond "Melbury" is as awesome as it was a few weeks (or maybe it was a week?) ago. Concentrated and powerful, this wine is amazing now and will continue to improve for a while. I would imagine this wine will shut down much as the 2001 did and hopefully emerge even more complex than it is now. Tasted now twice, the 1953 Chateau d'Yquem is what wine is all about. The purity, complexity, and sheer opulence comes shooting out of the glass. This wine continued to improve after 90 minutes in the glass. Apricots, peaches, and pears (all baked and stewed) with the perfect balance between acid, sweetness, and alcohol that leaves most everyone speechless. Simply a stunner and I feel fortunate to have been able to try this wine not once, but twice now, with similar notes each time. This wine will last another 30 years easily.

Pinot

The 2002 Martinelli "Bella Vigna" Pinot Noir, Sonoma was fantastic, as almost all of my experiences with their Pinot Noir's have been. While high in alcohol (14.8%), the wine showed hints of elegance tied in with all of that power. Martinelli has a signature richness - an almost thick quality - on the mid-palate that I don't find in anyone else's wines - almost strawberry Jolly Rancher.

Yummmmmmmm

Here we go...Wednesday night was awesome... amazing company, great food, and of course, a bottle of 1988 Krug. This wine is so oxidative - so rich. It's simply an incredible bottle of Champagne and goes down as one of my favorites I've ever drunk. Maybe not quite as good as the 1990 in the long run, but it's drinking better today. The finish is so long and rich with fruit-sweetness. The 1997 Chateau Lafite Rothschild is what you would expect from an off-vintage. A classic Lafite nose, but not terribly powerful. Green tannins on the back.

Last night as the 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia which is outshining the 2002 at the moment, though that will change as the 2002 comes together. Similar wines, but the 2001 is a touch lighter and less penetrating. Black fruits and tons of oak with loads of anise and mocha.... 1990 Chateau Gruaud-Larose is a stunning wine. Full of cedar and cigar box with truffles. Awesome. Such a long finish with black plums, figs and blackcurrants. Hints of cassis as well. Wonderul, baby of a wine.

Champagne!!!

Not that I tried any... just on my mind. The 2003 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is as good as usual... thick, rich, and concentrated. Awesome stuff... After work had the 2003 Dr. Burklin Wolf Estate Riesling, Pfalz... a great, dry Riesling (all of his rieslings are dry)... showing hints of petrol, loads of minerals, baked apples and apricots. Great stuff...

Fun Times All Around!

The 2004 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Pur Sang rocks... had a better taste of this wine this time. It'a really showing great minerality and is so clean... classic, rich, Pouilly-Fume. One of the best Sauvignon Blancs I've ever had. As I've talked about before, the 2004 Patz & Hall Pinot Noirs are amazing... The Hyde Vineyard (in 750 vs 375 - there is a difference) is as intense and powerful a young California Pinot as I've ever had. Ripe strawberries, raspberries and plums. Lots of oak - but it's all integrated. This is a Pinot monster and it's only getting better. I love the 1996 Muga Prado Enea Rioja Gran Reserva, but it hasn't changed much since I last tasted it (but I still love it!!!), so I won't talk about it. Refer to previous tasting notes. We discovered the secret to the 2000 Hatton Estate Tahi - don't decant it!!! The other night, the bottle died in the decanter. Not this time. Decanted 5 minutes before serving, this wine was powerful and pretty - just as I remember it. A great bottle of wine. But, the wine of the night was the 2001 Chateau Rieussec (375ml). The last bottle that we have... this wine has started to round out and is an amazing expression of terroir and is a classic sweet wine. Tons of botrytis, loads of minerals, with an incredible, dynamic finish that lasts for 90+ seconds. Amazing, amazing wine.

I NEED RIESLING!!!

You know how you get that hankering for something... well, I've got it for killer Riesling right now... I need some Robert Weil!!! The oily, minerality - the crisp acid - the pretty peaches and pears and apricots - oh my!!! Instead, the 2000 Hatton Estate "Tahi", Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels sub-region was not as good as I last remember it to be... I won't be decanting this wine anymore... it smells initially like Pichon-Lalande, then fades to Southern Hemisphere Raspberry (that's a technical term, FYI...) Long on the finish... needs less air. Drink it now... the 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, however, is shutting down for a long winter's nap. Don't touch it for at least 2 years. The nose is power, the palate is concentrated, but slightly unbalanced... the fruit will come around on this monster, it is just going to take some time. Great wine... I won't be opening mine for a long time.

Smiles All Around...

The 1955 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild was awesome. Clearly the best bottle of this that I've had, it took a good 15 minutes to really open up. Awesome cedar, clove and tons of Lafite tobacco, with sweet cherry fruit... drank like a 25 year old wine, not a 50 year old wine. Very, very nice... the 2003 de Trafford Strohwein, Stellenbosch, South Africa rocks... I've always loved this extraordinary vin de paille. Sweet baked apricots and unctour peaches. A great, long, lingering finish... sweet without being cloying.

One More (Good) Saturday Night...

Fun... Fun... It's been a few months since we've had it, so the 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache... hasn't changed much. Oh well... a great bottle of wine. Strawberries, cherries, roses, clove - all of the classic La Tache notes. I found my new house Champagne... the NV Delamotte Brut rocks. It's so yeast and bready with a clean, slightly creamy finish of pears and Granny Smith Apples. Kind of like Salon Jr... oh wait, it IS Salon jr.! Go figure... But it is great stuff for the $$. Completely forgot (not sure how!!!) the 1952 Chateau Margaux. Without question the 2nd best bottle that I've had of this... sold it for a song. So cedary with sweet cherries, violets and plums. A long, long, elegant finish to this wine at 54 years of age. Didn't last but 15 minutes in the glass, but still, a great wine.

No Pinot Noir for you!

Usually when R & I are on fire, there is a lot of Pinot Noir that goes out (Burgundy, Oregon, New Zealand, California). None. Zero. Zilch. All Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot based wines. No complaints though... The 1995 Chateau l'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, was slightly corked (though easily mistakable for the cedar qualities that develop in the older Bordeaux), and very bretty (Brettanomyces claussenii - a yeast strain that causes a fault in wine. An almost dirty, super-mushroomy, earthy, unclean nose. It's also the yeast strain used in the production of Guiness Stout.) Those two things together completely killed the wine for me... I've had it before and it's a great wine, this just wasn't a good bottle. The 1990 Chateau Pavie-Decesse, St.-Emilion started out as a beautiful cedar and cigar box full-bodied wine with lots of black plum and dried leaves. After about 20 minutes, it was gone... Very pretty, a very nice wine, just not a great wine. The 1998 Chateau Figeac, St.-Emilion is fabulous... perhaps the 4th or 5th time I've tasted it this year, this wine is massive. Coffee beans, cocoa, black plums, black currants, cassis, and just showing hints of cedar. The wine is huge right now - though it is not overly tannic. The 1998 Right Bank wines are so undervalued. I wish we had more of this, but unfortunately, we are out. I might have to pick a few up for my own cellar. Great stuff.

Now that the Bordeaux are out of the way... we also had the opportunity to taste two wines from arguably the greatest Estate in California - Bond and Harlan. The 2002 Bond Melbury is a classic Bill Harlan wine. How they get the concentration that they get in these wines blows me away. Drinking almost like a great bottle of Penfold's Grange, this wine has notes of black pepper, raspberry, black plum, cocoa, and figs. It was sweet, but the concentration was so thick. The tannins are soft and round, and the finish goes on and on... It only falls a tiny bit short of one of the great wines of the world, and one of the best wines from California I've ever had... the 2002 Harlan Estate. We've had these bottles in for about a month and were waiting for the right time to sell one. While the wine is great (I'll get into specifics in a second), I think we'll wait a while before selling another. The wine has nearly the same nose as it's little brother - minus the raspberries. No where near as fruit-forward, this wine is slightly closed with notes of cocoa, black plum, figs, pepper, anise, and cassis. Harlan Estate is making wines close to that of Chateau Latour. While definitively California, it has a certain earth-element that drives the wine, versus the pure lush fruit of the Bond. The concentration in the mouth is immense, with layers and layers of components consuming every part of your mouth. Instantly stains the teeth purple. While a great bottle of wine, I do not think that this wine is as good, nor will it be as good, as the 2001. I am generally more of a fan of the super-concentrated 2002s vs the fruit-forward and slightly lavish 2001s. But the 2002 does nto appear to be as balanced as the 2001. Maybe in time it will flesh out somewhat and really gain weight and body on the midpalate, but right now the attack is immense, followed by a slightly hollow midpalate and then a long, concentrated, if not slightly tannic, finish. The alcohol and acid are balanced, the tannins appear a little higher and the fruit needs to be more integrated. Give it time. This baby is not going anywhere anytime soon, so if you have some, hold them. Not among my top 5, but among the top 10. 100 points? doubtful... maybe 99 though.

I Have Seen The Next Great Thing, and It is...

Cru Beaujolais!!! Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Chenas, Julienas, St. Amour, Regnie, Chiroubles... Wowowowowow.... This is it... this is the stuff. It's cheap (for now), it's readily available, and it's killer!!! The producers are learning how to use oak, and they are using it in the correct amount!!! Goodbye maceration carbonique... hello whole cluster barrel fermented Gamay!!! Ever since the great Beaujolais vintage of 2003 (I despise this vintage just about everywhere else...), the Cru Beaujolias have been on a hot streak. Making awesome wines that will age (and improve!). 2003 Louis Jadot Clos de Rochegres Moulin-a-Vent, 2003 Chateau de Pierreux Brouilly... both see a good bit of new oak, but the classic bubble-gum characteristic of Beaujolais (and Gamay for that matter) is still there. Get ready for it... these wines rock!!!

Competition and Vacation

Now that I finally have a little time, I will try to update everything that has gone on in my life in the last 3 weeks - wine wise anyway. First, a trip to Santa Rosa California for the finals of the Best Young Sommelier in America. But before the actual competition, there was wine to taste! An amazing experience at Kosta Browne started things off. Many, many barrel samples. Whole cluster fermentation vs. free-run juice, Hungarian Oak vs. French Oak, new vs used oak, Pinot Noir Clone 777 vs Clone 23 vs Pommard 5... one of the great winery experiences in my life. Did I mention that they are making KILLER Pinot Noir? While it's relatively high-octane stuff, it is balanced and the wines are amazing. Then on to Forman where we tasted the less-intense, but more rose-petals and wild strawberry than the jammy quality of the Kosta Browne. Two great producers. Great wines.

At dinner that night we had a vast array of Italian wines, but frankly, I was too anxious for the competition to get started to really write any of them down... did have my first Cersuolo di Vittoria from Sicily (a new DOCG), great stuff... made from Frapetto and Nero d'Avola.

The competition was very intense and very exhausting. Afterwards, had quite a few beers... The Old Tire Ale was awesome on draft... perfect for a HOT (101) afternoon! On to dinner, where I found out that I did not place, but I did finish in the top 5, which I was pretty happy with. Cheers to the winner... he certainly deserved it. Many Advanced Sommeliers and quite a few that had previously sat for the MS exam. After dinner, V grabbed me and took me out to get, well, hammered. All of the other competitiors were there and we all had a great time. New friends, great experience. Great time. Would do it again in a second if I could.

After that... a week at the lake!!! So, I went from Palm Beach > Las Vegas > Palm Beach (rest 1 day), Palm Beach> Sonoma>New Hampshire in a week... Lots of time on the airplane!!! My wife picked me up from the airport and drove the 45 minutes to the house... Our good friends joined us for a week of relaxation... all of the wines that we had were amazing... I can't think of one that was even mediocre. I'll just list them, then at the end, put my 5 favorites. Mumm Cordon Rouge (magnum), 2004 Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshole Riesling Auslese (two bottles), 1983 Reichgraff von Kesselstadt Schwarzhofberger Riesling Auslese, 1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese, 1995 Nederberg Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, 1989 Chateau Montrose, 1990 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Sizeranne, 1985 Chateau Leoville Las Cases, 1982 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, 1988 Chateau Pichon-Baron, 1990 Chateau Pichon-Baron, 1986 Chateau Cos d'Estournel, 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle... that's not complete but I need to find my list to get everything correct. I'll come back and complete this section...

1976 (completed)

I know I need to write details of some of the wines I've tasted lately, but I'd rather do this... my own version of the 1976 Paris Tasting. I put together a list of the best wines I've had from different regions around the world... and I'll face them off against each other... My beef with the most recent Paris tasting was that it was done with very old (and many I would presume, very tired) wines. In the last 30 years the wine industry has changed so much that a modern tasting of modern styles of wines would be like comparing apples and oranges, unless you're using a freakish vintage like 2003. First, the best Bordeaux wines I've ever had are... 1961 Chateau Latour, 1982 Chateau Latour, 1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 1982 Chateau Cheval-Blanc, 1990 Chateau Margaux, 1982 Chateau Pichon-Lalande, 1955 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1975 Chateau Petrus, 1990 Chateau Latour, and 1989 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion. Compare those to the best California Cabs or Blends I've ever had... 1968 BV Georges de Latour, 2001 Harlan Estate, 1997 Bryant Family, 1997 Colgin Herb Lamb, 2001 Shafer Hillside Select, 1985 Joseph Phelps Backus, 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, 1991 Caymus Special Selection, 1987 Dominus, 1997 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon. Which list is better? Overall, Bordeaux. But the top? 2001 Harlan Estate. So, California wins the race, but looses the competition. Now, lets move on to the rest of the world. Best Dry Whites? 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1988 DRC Montrachet, 1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, 1999 Kistler Vine Hill Chardonnay, 1999 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum, 2001 Zind Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Grand Cru Rangen Clos Saint-Urbain, 2003 Didier Dagueneau "Silex" Pouilly-Fume, 1996 J. Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche, 1997 Franz Hirzberger Gruner Veltliner Rotes Tor Smaragd Wachau. Notice anything? All European, less one. Best Pinot Noirs? 1990 J.F. Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1985 DRC Echezeaux, 1989 DRC Romanee-Saint-Vivant, 1976 Leroy Romanee-Saint-Vivant, 1996 Kistler Cuvee Catherine Pinot Noir, 2005 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard*, 1990 Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanee "Les Suchots", 2002 St. Innocent Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, 1994 Rochioli East Block Pinot Noir, 1999 Archery Summit Arcus Estate Pinot Noir. Now this one is decieving as I prefer Burgundy pretty much hands down to any other Pinot-producing region. The problem is that the great Burgundies are so few and far between. So, there we are. I will say that the 1996 Kistler Cuvee Catherine is without question the best new-world Pinot Noir I've ever come across. It's simply amazing. But no where near as stunning as the JF Mugnier Musigny VV was... incredible. How about Syrah-based wines? 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, 1990 Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne, 1999 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque, 1990 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne, 2002 Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Syrah, 2002 Shirvington Shiraz (I hate the wine, but it is among the best I've ever had), 2003 Mitolo GAM, 1998 Penfolds Grange, 1982 Penfolds Grange, 2001 Torbreck Run Rig, 1998 Henschke Hill Of Grace Shiraz. Now you're starting to see a little bit of a new world influence. I do, in fact, mostly prefer Grange. I am much more of an "old school" Syrah/ Shiraz style guy. The best wine in the bunch? The 1998 Grange. Champagne/Sparkling Wine? Let's drop the Sparkling Wine... it's all Champagne... 1990 Krug (magnum), 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil, 1990 Dom Perignon Rose (magnum), 1981 Dom Perignon Rose, 1985 Dom Perignon, 1985 Perrier-Jouet Rose Belle Epoque, 1985 Louis Roedered Cristal (magnum), 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill, 1996 Dom Perignon, 1976 Dr. Thannisch Bernkastler Doctor Riesling Sekt. The best? For brut, it's the 1990 Krug. For rose, it's the 1985 Perrier-Jouet Rose. Sweet Wines? 1998 Wolfberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Rangen SGN, 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 1990 Chateau d'Yquem, 1989 Chateau d'Yquem, 1953 Chateau d'Yquem, 2001 Chateau Rieussec, 2000 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Hors Choix SGN, 1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannsholle Riesling Auslese, 1964 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Kronenberg feinste Auslese Riesling, 1976 J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese. And, well, there you have it. Sauternes, Alsace, and Germany. Kracher almost made it from Austria, but that's about it. Now, the best of the rest. 1959 Inglenook Charbono, 2000 Hatton Estate Tahi (New Zealand), 1986 Penfold's 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, 1990 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998 Les Cailloux Cuvee Centenaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2001 Almaviva (Chile), 1982 Sassicaia, 1998 Gaja Costa Russi, 1999 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo, 1990 Ornellaia. Best of this lot is hands down the 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico. So, you put all of that together, and what do you get? What the Paris tasting should have been was a comparison of those who make wine to drink young and those who make wine to age. My palate favors an older wine, or a wine made in a style that is more food-friendly and less fruit and alcohol driven. A great wine should be a number of things, but it should first and foremost be balanced. There is not one unbalanced wine in the list above. They are, what I would consider, to be the best of the best. While I know there are many, many other great wines out there (and I can't wait to try them), I know that my favorites will have that same characteristic. So, the best of the list? The top 5? 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, 2001 Harlan Estate, 1990 JF Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1990 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne, and 1982 Chateau Latour. I'll let you figure out my favorite today...

Listing (with reviews)

From the last week... the 2004 Dagueneau Pur Sang Pouilly-Fume is amazing. This is more what Pouilly-Fume should be, though I do admit to owning a bottle of the voluptous 2003. Such a steely-minerally intense finish. Tons of grapefruit, grass, gooseberry and citrus fruits. But it is the fatness and minerals that give this wine it's class. Awesome stuff. Have to get one of these too. The 1996 Chateau Lagrange, St. Julien, is a very, very good Bordeaux. It is so soft with beautiful notes of black plum, figs, and cedar. It is classic St. Julien, with a long life ahead. The 1996 Harlan "Maiden" is, unfortunately, fading away. The initial nose was beautiful with the classic anise and intense black fruit concentration of any of Bill Harlans amazing wines. But, unfortunately, over the next 2 hours, it died almost completely. The 2001 Dominus is good, but no where near what the 2002 is. The 2002s are so much more concentrated than the 2001s (from what I've tasted). There appears to be a little more variability in the quality, but the best are better than the 2001s. The 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill is a great Champagne. One of the best I've ever had. It is so clean and clear with a long, long, yeast and mineral driven finish. Very light, as far as aged vintage Champagne goes.