Fun Night

Had a great time last night... the 2005 Gunderloch "Jean-Baptiste" Riesling Kabinett is so light and nice. It shows some pretty petrol with just a touch of residual sugar. Very nice... The 2005 Pahlmeyer Pinot Noir is a monster... could be one of the biggest Pinot's out there (reminded me a lot of a young Kistler Pinot Noir). Tons of alcohol (almost out of balance - notice I said "almost"), but beautiful ripe fruit with cranberry, rhubarb and red plum. Wild strawberry and raspberry scream out of the glass. Give it time, me thinks. Same can be said of the 1989 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron. Wow... when we first opened it, the nose was massive - tons of cedar and pencil lead - lots of deep, dark earthy fruit (no sweet cherries here). After an hour it finally started to open up and that's when I noticed the mid-palate propelled this wine to new heights... really stunning stuff.

Happy Thanksgiving (belated, anyway...)

Hope everyone had a great day... For me, it was... 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Grancy - wow is this wine drinking well right now. The nose is rediculous. When young, these wines offer little charm... but as they age, watch out! The nose is so expressive and terroir-driven... nice. The 1988 Louis Latour Corton-Grancy was even more evolved and is completely mature... lovely clove and powerful earth notes. Nice length. The 1999 Arrowood "Saralee's Vineyard" Syrah was loosing fruit, but is so much more Cornas than California Syrah... all bacon fat and black olive. The 2002 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru "Duvault-Blanchot" is still a baby and was actually quite closed and not giving much. This needs quite a few more years before I'd touch it.

Another Good One

First, the 1996 Chatau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is awesome... so silky and smooth... no longer a baby - more a teenager - it still has a long life ahead of it, but I just don't know how much better it's going to get. There is a hint of green to this wine, but it is so silky and seductive... The 1999 Gaja Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino is simply outstanding... this one goes on the "best of" list immediately. The wine has beautiful sweet - but dried - fruit. It is classic Brunello made in a modern style (does that even make sense?). The finish is mindblowing and screams "drink me!". I just love the style, purity, and intensity of Anjelo Gaja's wines... The 2003 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a monster - extremely extracted - with tons of anise and ripe black cherries. This is simply not my style of wine, though some publications have given it 100 points, I fail to see how or why - other than the extreme extraction. The 1995 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache is the complete opposite - this is a lady - so silky with a much less developed nose than the 1990 Romanee-Conti from the other day - but a much more evolved and open palate. The only way to describe it is silk and roses... sadly, it was our last bottle and it had yet to blossomed...

Almost...

It's almost time for my "Wines of the Year"... While there's still a lot of time between now and the end of the year, and I'm sure a lot of great wine in that time as well, it's nonetheless time to start narrowing down my favorite bottles I've tried in the last year.

First, let's list the nominees...

Champagne & Sparkling Wines - 1990 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blanc, 1979 Krug Collection en Magnum, 1990 Bruno Paillard "Nec Plus Ultra", 1996 Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blanc, 1990 Dom Perignon Rose en Magnum, 1995 Charles Heidsieck "Blanc de Millenieres", 1999 Cristal en Jerobaum, 1999 Cristal Rose, 1994 Ca'del Bosco Cuvee Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta... who could argue with a list like this?

Burgundy - 1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti, 1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux, 2005 Clos de Tart, 1995 Domaine Leroy Richebourg, 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-St.-Vivant "Morey Monge", 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux, 1989 Remoissenet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Cazetieres, 2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet, 1966 Leroy Meursault 1er Cru "Pezerolles", 1998 Comte George de Vogue Le Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1988 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg, 2004 Joseph Drouhin Musigny, 1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee St.-Vivant "Morey Monge", 1989 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux (I think that covers all of the DRC Red Grand Crus, right?)... lots of yum in this bunch... I bet more than 2-3 will make the top 10 this year...

Bordeaux - 1982 Chateau Latour, 1995 Chateau Latour, 1955 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, 1993 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc, 1986 Chateau Cheval-Blanc, 1985 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1986 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1961 Chateau Latour, 1983 Chateau Margaux, 1952 Chateau Margaux, 1995 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 1990 Chateau Certan de May, 1990 Chateau Gruaud Larose, 1970 Chateau Latour, 1989 Chateau Palmer, 2000 Chateau Pichon Lalande... again, hard to imagine?

Other French & Sweet Wines (not just French) - 2000 Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling, 2004 Didier Dagueneau Silex, 1990 Chateau d'Yquem, 1999 Tirecul "Cuvee Madame" Monbazilliac, 1990 Guigal "La Turque" Cote-Rotie, 1975 Quinta da Noval "Nacional", 2000 Sparr Schoenenberg Grand Cru Riesling, 2001 Chateau Guiraud, 1900 Irmes & Borges Colheita Port, 2000 Madiran "Penillet"(not sure of the producer!!!), 2001 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle", 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle", ... not a great sweet wine year, for the most part.

German - 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf Kirchenstuck, 1990 Dr. Burklin Wolf Auslese Trocken "BB"... not a great Riesling year either, unfortunately...

Spanish - 1998 Alvario Palacios "L'Ermita" Priorato, 2002 Roda I Rioja, 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico... wow, didn't realize how little Spanish I've had this year, either...

Italian - now, this is an area I racked up the wines in... 1996 Gaja Sperss, 2001 Gaja Sperss, 1989 Gaja Barbaresco, 1989 Gaja Darmagi, 2001 Gaja Dagromis Barolo, 2004 Sassicaia, 2003 Gaja Ca'Marcanda Estate Ca'Marcanda, 1981 Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva, 2001 Pio Cesare "Il Bricco" Barbaresco, 1985 Braida Bricco dell'Uccellone Barbera d'Asti, 1997 Gaja Costa Russi, 2000 Gaja Conteisa, 1999 Guado al Tasso, 2001 Gaja Conteisa, 2004 Gaja Barbaresco, 2006 Martinetti "Martin", 2006 Sassicaia, 1995 Banfi Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 2001 Banfi Poggio Alle Mura "Brunello di Montalcino" Riserva, 1993 Banfi Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 1975 Bertani Amarone, 2003 Masseto (you may be asking how I can put this on here after the horrible review I gave it... well, it's on here for a reason - to be revealed later...)... again, a wonderful list...

Austria - 2004 Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, 1999 Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor Gruner Veltliner Smaragd (short list...)

Australia & New Zealand - 1990 Penfolds Grange, 1998 Penfolds Grange, 1994 Penfolds Grange, 2004 Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon (I really should just stop here, because short of something like a fully Grange, 707, or Hill of Grace this is the best wine I've had from Australia this year.), 2004 Craggy Range "Le Sol" Syrah

United States - 1994 Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995 Pahlmeyer Red en Magnum, 1991 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon en Magnum, 1992 Chalone Pinot Blanc, 2004 Sea Smoke "Southing" Pinot Noir, 2005 Sea Smoke "Southing" Pinot Noir, 2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay, 2003 Harlan Estate, 2003 Lewis Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001 Archery Summit Arcus Pinot Noir, 1996 Dalla Valle "Premiere Napa Valley" Barrel #41, 1997 Dominus, 1999 Gaja Barbaresco, 2005 Blackbird, 1994 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon en Magnum, 2005 Pride Cabernet Franc, 2003 Phelps Backus, ZD Abacus VII, - lovely stuff here... in all honestly again, it's going to be very hard to beat either the 1994 Colgin, 2002 Shafer Hillside, or 2004 Sea Smoke Southing...

Rest of the World - 1997 Almaviva, 2003 Almaviva, 2004 Almaviva (can you tell I love this wine!?!?)

Well... I'm sure I missed a few... I'd love to hear your thoughts... had any of these wines this year? I'd love to hear your impressions...

Two Spectacular Wines... two opposite worlds... (& WS WOTY 2007)

It's so rare that I come home and write anymore... only when the wine calls for it, and boy, did it call for it tonight. When I got into work today, I was greeted with a taste of an extraodinary Cabernet Sauvignon - 2004 Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley, South Australia.... this is a wine I've only ever read about - the rarity (only bottled separately 7 times in 1948, 1953 (as Grange Cabernet), 1961 & 1963 (experiments for the fabulous Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon - the '63 as Bin 64 Kalimna Cabernet), 1964 (Bin 707 - though it was entirely Block 42 fruit), 1996 and now again in 2004(part of the production was bottled in screwcap), the age of the vines (the oldest still-producing Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the planet - back to the 1880s), and of course the legend of the intensity and purity of fruit (the vineyard was considered essential in the early experiments Max Schubert did in producing Grange). The wine had been opened a good 20 hours before I tried it, and I am very glad it was... the nose is pure black fruit with layers and layers of black ash and earth. On the palate, there was a hint of sweetness of fruit - black raspberry - and tons of glycerol, but the wine is in perfect balance. An amazing rich, chocolate & tar mouth... great texture as it truly coats the entire palate. Amazing, amazing wine. Clearly in the top 10 of the year, probably in the top 5 but unfortunately, it doesn't even make wine of the night.

The wine of the night, and possibly the year, and up there with the best I've ever tried, was the other legend... the 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy, France, was mindblowing... the nose was simply without peer... it was like I could see the soil in 3D!!! The rocks, the individual clumps of clay, the slope of where those exact grapes for that exact bottle came from.... Sweet cherry and strawberry fruit, but otherworldy exotic spicebox, classic DRC clove, dried mushrooms, turned earth, layer after layer... I could have smelled the wine forever - again, in perfect balance. On the palate the wine was... could it be... way, way, way too young... The layers and depth of fruit had certainly transfered to the palate, but they had not completely integrated and there was a good bit of grippy tannin (though all in utterly perfect balance). The finish was long and powerful, but lacking the pure elegance and silky textural quality I associate with mature Romanee-Conti (though, not the same as La Tache)... this one goes to the top for what it is now and for what it will be in the future. If I were lucky enough to have this bottle in my cellar, I would wait a good 10-15 years before I opened it.

Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year was announced today... the 2005 Clos de Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape... I hate to say I could see it coming, but this wine has been touted between WS and RP for the last few years. Great wine, sure... but another CdP???? Yes, they're making great wines at great prices other regions (Burgundy, Bordeaux) were selling their top wines for 20 years ago... and they're making a lot of it, but still...

More Goodies...

The 2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf Kirchenstuck is a stunner... so mineraly and full of petrol and ripe, sweet fruit... perfect balance. A great Pfalz riesling from one of the great German producers... The 1997 Dominus (two bottles) is one of the best of the 1997s I've had, and certainly the best I've had in a while. Though maybe not the 1997 Bryant or Screaming Eagle, the wine is a California wine trying to be St.-Emilion. So pure and earthy with loads of cedar, cigar box and tar... beautiful.

Bene!

Really nice stuff this week so far... had a fabulous dinner with Cristina Mariani-May of Castello Banfi... 2001 Brunello di Montalcino, 1998 Brunello di Montalcino "Poggio alle Mure", 1997 Brunello di Montalcino "Poggio alle Mure", 1997 Summus, 1995 Excelsius, 1993 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva "Poggio all'Oro"... beautiful stuff. Also, the 1995 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvingon (knockout wine here...), and 1997 Bastiaolo Barolo...

Fun Few Days...

Went back to Charlotte, NC for the first time in 2 1/2 years... had loads of fun and it was great to catch up with good friends... of course, there was wine involved. Lots of it....
1992 Chalone Pinot Blanc... what can you say about this wine??? It just ages so well (!)... I was fortunate enough to taste a 1982 Chalone Pinot Blanc (could have been 83, I'll have to check my notes) a few years ago and the wine was still alive. This wine was still a baby. Showing a slight oxidative character (typical for this wine), the wine was honeysuckle, hazelnuts and minerals. Beautifully rich and creamy. The 2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay (just released) was beautiful. Not overly oaked, but a beautiful balance of ripe fruit and great acidity. A true "breakfast wine". The 2003 Aubert "Ritchie Vineyard" Chardonnay had bunches more oak, and was creamy and rich (we actually drank this at the end of the evening and it was perfect after all of the red wines - see below). I didn't like it as much as the Kongsgaard, but it's still tasty!
I won't go into details, but rather just list the wines... the theme was Robert Foley Wines (Hourglass, Switchback Ridge, Poison, Pride Mountain, Robert Foley Vineyards)...

1998 Pride Cabernet Franc, 1998 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 Switchback Ridge Merlot, 2003 Pride Merlot (x3), 2002 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah, 2004 Robert Foley Claret, 2003 Poison, 2001 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Pride Cabernet Franc (x3), 2003 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah, 2005 Robert Foley Claret, 2003 Robert Foley Claret, 2004 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 Switchback Ridge Merlot, 2000 Pride Reserve Claret, 2002 Pride Cabernet Franc, 2001 Pride Reserve Claret, 2004 Robert Foley Petite Sirah

Some were repeated and I just didn't write them down, but that's a whole lot of Robert Foley. Blind. Speed wise... was 27 Robert Foley Wines total.

Also while I was there had Duval Leroy Brut - really, really great, dry true-brut Champagne. The 2005 Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt Piesporter Goldtropchen Riesling Kabinett was beautiful... already showing petrol notes, this wine was ripe and floral with tons of minerals. The 2004 Joseph Drouhin Cote de Beaune Rouge(declassified Clos de Mouches 1er Cru) was fabulous. Took a while to open, but the fruit is there. The structure is there. A great bargain! The 2004 Verrazzano Chianti Classico was stinky, but once the funk blew off - terrific, classic wine from this superb vintage. The 2003 Chateau d'Arche Sauternes was so good... a bit riper than normal (that's 2003!) and lower acid, but a great finish!

Um Um Good...

A nice evening last night... the 1997 Laurent-Perrier Brut is very clean and very crisp with lovely lemon and unripe white peach... nice. The Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Rare is rich, yeasty, toasty and a bit fruity - especially on the palate. Ripe apricots and orange rind with hazelnut... very pretty and very easy to drink... The 2005 Domaine Chavy Puligny-Montrachet "les Folatieres" is a tightly wound ball of minerals ready to just explode (in about 10 years!). The steely, chalky pebbles scream out of the piercing acidity of this one... the 05s really are as good the hype. The 2004 Craggy Range Syrah "le Sol" was incredible last night (after tasting it last week I had to buy some...) Smoke, tons of crushed pebbles (who says minerality only comes in Old World wines???), amazing layers of anise, cocoa, black peppercorns, and black cherries. This is intense stuff and I encourage everyone to find a bottle (though not inexpensive - $50-65 US retail). The 2003 Joseph Phelps Backus Cabernet Sauvignon continues to blow me away... even at its price point, it's a bargain.