Thursday, October 13, 2005

Is Red Wine really better than White Wine? Part I

Lately I hear lots of "I only drink Red Wine", or "I won't touch the stuff (when referring to White Wine"... Why is there such a negative connotation about White Wine? Furthermore, what can we do to stop it? I often get the impression that people say they don't drink white wine to try to a) impress the sommelier b)impress their friends c)indicate that they know a lot about wine and that white wine isn't what "real" wine drinkers drink. I've got news for you... I drink a good bit of white wine. Generally, unless I know I'm going to be drinking a great bottle of red wine, I'd rather have a white. Now, not just any white mind you. You can have all of the California Oak Bombs for someone else. Give me a bottle of Riesling (German, New Zealand, Austria, Alsace, etc) any day of the week over most Cali Chard (notice I say most - there are still a few outstanding Chardonnay producers in California - Rochioli, David Ramey (his Hyde is amazing), Paul Hobbs, Walter Hansel, Flowers, and quite a few others. They all have a common thread though - they don't overoak their wine. Wines that I love are wines that express the flavor of the grape they come from, and the ground they grow in (yup, terroir). Riesling is probably my favorite white grape. It expresses its sense of place better than any other grape I know... achieving Pinot Noir like earthiness (in a different sort of way), with intense acidity. Amazing stuff. If only the Germans could get their wine laws straight... Chardonnay can be great... just look at the great White Burgundies - Drouhin's Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet is always mindblowing; the purity of Leroy's wines is unmatched be it a Premier Cru Puligny or another of her other incredible wines. Sure, red wines are what usually get us "hooked" on wine, but don't be afraid to try a great Albarino or Gruner Veltliner next time instead.

On to recent wines... 1996 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - nice, not great. Showing some sweet cherry on the finish, but it wasn't much of a finish. A touch of cedar on the nose was nice. Just an ok wine. The 1994 Chateau d'Yquem was spectacular, and it was not a premier vintage for d'Yquem (though, that just drops their off-vintage wines from mindblowing to spectacular). Gorgeous honey, apricot, flowers. Great wine. The 2003 Chapoutier "La Bernadine" Chateauneuf-du-Pape is showing more alcohol right now than it was a few weeks ago. The fruit is still there, it's just got lots of alcohol.

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