A Good Night...

The 2001 Stags Leap Wine Cellars "Fay" Cabernet Sauvignon in 3L was finally showing well... the 4th 3L that we've sold, this wine is showing cedar notes and a kind of minty-softness on the nose that follows to the palate. A nice wine. The 1995 Pol Roger "Sir Winston Churchill" Brut rocks... nuts and toast, nuts and toast... a long, long finish. The 1995 Araujo "Eisele Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon was showing as well as it ever has... after 3 hours, it had finally opened enough to really show... Black plums and cedar with eucalyptus and currants. A very, very long concentrated finish. Showing beautifully at 11 years of age. The 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico is simply one of the great wines on our wine list right now. It's like eating a piece of fennel - licorice with a certain "woodiness"... or Black Truffle wrapped in fennel... anyway, you get the idea. It tastes like Tempranillo that's spent a long time in oak (which it has...) A great, great wine, but I don't think it deserves to move up in the list right now.

Well, it's time...

It's been long enough... seen a few changes in the list since I started writing about it - a few additions, moving wines around, but all in all, it's been pretty clean... So, without further delay,
My #1 and #1 Wines of the Year... but wait, you're saying, you can't have co-#1s can you? Sure, it's my blog and I can do whatever I want (it's good to be the king)...

#1 - 2001 Harlan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
#1 - 1982 Chateau Latour, Pauillac (bottle #5)

Why are they both #1? Well, I could not decide which was better - they are both completely perfect wines and they are at complete opposite ends of their development. The Harlan is there because of it's raw power and intensity - combined with unreal balance, incredible texture and amazing length. It is a complete wine and there is nothing I could either add or subtract to this (except maybe add a few bottles to my cellar...) to improve it. It is a benchmark wine and one that I'll remember the smell and taste of forever. The Latour is there because it too is perfect - perfectly balanced, has incredible texture and amazing length. Instead of just raw power and intensity (though it certainly has some of both), this wine has finesse and has a nose with aromatics I have never come across... The pure cedary/plummy/cigar-boxy quality to this wine is just the tip of the layer upon layer of developed fruit and earth... It just screams from the glass and leaves me at a loss for words. My guess is that if Mr. Levy & Mr. Harlan ran Latour and Mr. Engerer ran Harlan, their wines would not be much different - less the terroir. So take your pick - the Harlan is either a young Latour or the Latour is an older Harlan - either way, it was a joy to taste both this year.

More DRC

The last bottle of 1996 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache was, unfortunately, completely underwhelming. The nose was extraordinary with notes of cranberries, rhubarb, raspberries with clove and earth... left me nearly speechless... unfortunately, the palate left me equally speechless for all the wrong reasons... the wine had notes of volatile acidity, had no mid-palate and was all clove and very dried fruit... not spectacular. All in all, 7/10...

Echezeauxxxxxx

Must have been something in the air... the 1994 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux is bar far the best of the 94s that I've had... A wonderful deep earthy nose with strawberry and classic rhubarb and clove nose that DRCs always have... I'm glad there is another bottle in the cellar... Also was the 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux... this has an amazing nose and continues to confirm my belief that the 2001 Red Burgundies are vastly under-rated and are showing so much terroir-driven attributes, that I think these wines might outlast the highly-acclaimed 2002s, which I was never in complete love with anyway. The nose was rose petals, clove, cinnamon, rhubarb and a deep, dark earthiness that defines Echezeaux. A great wine!

Had an amazing dining experience last night... started out with the 1996 Veuve A. Deveaux Millesime Brut, which at last check is still not imported into the United States... this is one of the great Champagnes I've ever had... I have my original tasting notes around here somewhere (from when I visited the winery in January 2004)... the yeastiness combined with the length and depth of fruit on this wine made my head spin. I had been saving it for the night since I got back and it was well worth the journey...

Merry Christmas II

! I'll post when I have time... (I have time now...) The 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne was a bit closed and didn't give up a lot... very nutty with honeysuckle and lemon on the moderate finish... very good, not great... The 1998 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet "Les Pucelles" on the other had was spectacular! Piercing acidity with layers and layers of minerals, pear, and Granny Smith Apple... Awesome!!! The 2002 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine I didn't want to like... I tried so hard to hate it... and in the end, though it's not my style of wine, I have to admit - this wine is great. Very thick and concentrated with wonderful length, this is a classic of the 2002 vintage. The wine of the night was the 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie "La Mouline"... I thought it was better than the 1990, and so I will bump the 1990 down one slot to #12 and put the 1999 in at #11 for the year... The wine just bursts from the glass with raspberry, tar, black plums, asian spices, and mocha... once you were done smelling it, the real fun begins... on the palate the wine has just the most velvety texture - it just sings in your mouth... The attack is so powerful, then gives way to pretty floral notes and finally the amazing, incredible finish. It just screams of earth and plums... the wine wants to not jump out of the glass - it wants to rocket out... One of the great wines of my life... I wouldn't be suprised if this ended up much higher on the list this year than #11 when I actually have some time to think about it... Oh yeah, the 2002 Screaming Eagle finally started to open up (!) 24 hours later and was a much more complete wine...

Christmas Eve

Merry Christmas! Not a great wine night, but decent. The 2003 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay is great, not as good as the 2002, but nicely buttered and just a touch of oak. The 2004 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay is a bit more mineraly, but in the same vain as the Newton... perhaps not quite as good, but very good. The 1999 Prunotto Barolo was good, but not great. The 1995 Chateau Pichon-Baron was very good... a nice cedary Bordeaux with plums... a long life ahead. The 2004 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon was tasted again after 6 hours... fabulous, but in-your-face style. The 2002 Screaming Eagle was, well, as I always fin it, completely underwhelming. Plummy and concentrated... this wine has nothing on the 2002 Harlan or the 2002 Shafer Hillside. I would gladly drink it as it is a very good wine, but I wouldn't seek it out.

#3s

So there are 2 #3s this year... They are equally great and I could not put one in front of the other without going back and changing it... so (in no particular order)...

#3 - 2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley - see my notes from the other day... hard to believe it gets any better than this... but this year it did... twice. Tasted twice now with very consistant notes.

#3 - 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy - yup, their entire holding is in Chassagne-Montrachet... simply one of the greatest white wines I've ever tasted (not sure if I like it more than the 1990 Latour Corton - I don't think so, but this year it seemed to be more "magical" than the LLCC). Such power with intense minerals, crushed pebbles and ripe pear. The mid-palate and the finish on this wine are incredible... goes on and on and on... worth the money.

Pre-Christmas Blahs...

pretty boring as of late, but the 1997 Tassinaia (Super-Tuscan) rocks... found two more bottles after we took it off the list. Sold one and the wine is killer... we had two corked bottles in a row but then found a good one about a month ago... great stuff... shows how overall great the 1997 Vintage in Central Italy was...

A Very Good Night

sort of... had the 2002 Casa Lapostelle Clos Apalta, Puente Alto, Chile again last night and I just can't get excited about this wine... it has all of the marks of extraction, but none of the finesse... it's a very good, but one-dimensional wine. The 2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon is amazing... one of my all-time favorite wines and certainly one of the best California Cabernets I've ever tasted, young or old. Immense anise, black currants, gravel and plums. This is a rockstar wine with silky, smooth tannins... the concentration is amazing, but at no time is it overpowering or a burden to the wine... Elias Fernandez is a genius. Anyone who can make a wine that is this pure, this balanced, and sings like this, well... he'll always get my business...

#7, #6, and #5... plus wines from last night

The 1996 Joseph Phelps Backus Cabernet Sauvignon was completely underwhelming... It was our last bottle and it's nice to have it gone. It's got a cedary-black currant-blackberry nose that is much lighter than one would think, especially from the outstanding 1996 vintage... anyway, the 2002 Ramey Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay is amazing... still one of the best California Chardonnay's I've ever had, this wine is minerals, spicy oak, apples, pears, and there is an amazing purity about the wine. I wish I had bought the magnums when I had the chance...

Anyway, back to the countdown. It will be at least Friday, if not Wednesday before I get back to writing again (busy, busy few days ahead)... So we'll scratch the next three off the list.

#7 - 1990 Krug Brut, en Magnum - without question the single greatest Champagne I've ever had (better than the 85...) This is the complete opposite to the 1988 which is silky and soft. This is raw power with layers and layers of oxidized pears, brioche, autolisys, and an immense finish... It just doesn't get any better than this. So much better than the 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil...

This is where all of the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines come out... Despite my heart being in Alsace, Germany, and Burgundy - the best wines being made are still from this grape. There is only one non-Cab based wine from here on out...

#6 - 1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Premier Cru, Pauillac - one of the legends of wine, this is the single best bottle of Mouton I've ever had (still waiting for the invite on the '45 or '47...) After being decanted for 3 hours, it was just staring to show the depth and power of this wine. So silky and simply still a baby... I wouldn't open this until 2020 if I had some and they have been stored correctly... Black plums and graphite with amazing power. A stunner - was tasted next to 1982 La Mission Haut Brion and 1990 Montrose...

#5 - 1955 Chateau Haut-Brion, Premier Cru, Pessac - the only first growth not in the Haut-Medoc, this wine is bound to be different than the other 4... And while the other 4 are very different from each other (Mouton with it's silkiness, Lafite with its cedary elegance, Latour with its power, and Margaux with the sexy nose and amazing texture), it's Haut-Brion with its bacon-fat and gravel nose that makes it the most seductive. It will never be the most elegant, but wow, when its good, its really good. And when its great, almost nothing can come close. This was the first of 5 bottles I've tasted and it was the best... Tasting like a 1975, this wine was young and didn't open for about an hour and 1/2... Beautiful texture and completely envelops all of your senses... Great wine...

Ok... all that's left is the top 3 (two are tied at #3)...

Holiday

mmm great wines last night. Started with the Piper-Heidseick Brut, which is good, but unspectacular. The Pol Roger Brut NV rocks... though not the depth of the Sir Winnie, it's a great, classic champagne halfway between Louis Roederer Brut and Bollinger. Lovely... Then we opened up a bottle of 1981 Chateau St. Jean Johannisberg Riesling Belle Terre Vineyards... 11.9% ABV, 1.9% Residual Sugar harvested at 21.9 Brix... Amazing that this wine was still alive. lasted all of 10 minutes, then turned completely. Complete oil with hazelnuts and just a tiny bit of honey and apricots. A very educational wine and it just goes to show you the aging qualities of riesling... The 2005 Dr. Thannisch Bernkastler Doctor Riesling Spatlese rocks... no oil or petrol yet, just all slate and peaches, pears and apricots. Moved onto red... the 2003 Simonnet Febvre Irancy (an area just outside of Chablis in Burgundy... this is made from 100% Pinot Noir but can use Gamay and Cesar as well.) A beautiful rose-petal nose and cranberries and rhubarb... A very, very nice Pinot Noir that is not imported into the US... yet. Only in France and Canada... The 1993 Banfi Poggio all Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, en Magnum - is in full maturity and is drinking so nicely. Lovely cedar and dried cherries, cranberries and plums with soft, round tannins. Shows what happens when really good Brunello is aged to maturity... The 1986 Chateau Lynch-Bages was a superstar... Though I find it really hard to get that excited about Bordeaux any more, this could be one of the best that I've had from 1986. Certainly the best 86 Lynch Bages I've had, this bottles was flawless and was stored very kindly for the last 20 years. Black plums, cedar, cassis and with still the classic Lynch-Bages power. A really amazing wine. For dessert, the 2002 Inniskillen Vidal Ice Wine is nectar... honey, apricots, pears and a pretty sweetness. Really nice dessert wine. Followed that up with some Sandeman's Amontillado Sherry which was fabulous. A lovely end to a great meal.

Well, Change Happens...

I knew this would happen - or was it hoped this would happen?

Anyway, I moved #29 and #28 back a spot to #29 and #30, respectively. In is...

#28 - 1985 Domaine Leroy Volnay 1er Cru, Cote du Beaune, Burgundy - DRC who? Not really, but sort of. I have never tasted any Pinot Noir from any producer (yup, not even DRC) that ages like Leroy. This wine is a baby - still very tight with tremendous earth and ripe blackberries. This is not even close to the maturity mark... I need to get some of her wines... even the basic village-level wines are amazing and develop incredible depth over many years. First time having this wine...

Also tasted was the 2000 Guidalberto from Magnum, Tuscany - dried black fruits and a delicious cedar note... The first vintage of this wine was a star - an excellent bottle.

And we're off

First, the 2003 Louis Jadot/Clos des Ducs Magenta Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot (got all that?) is one of the best, well balanced white White Burgundies from the 2003 vintage. A little flashy, but pretty.

Only 15 days left in the year (or is it 16... I don't know dates)... and I'm only at number 9? Well, let's do it..

#9 - 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy - Well, it had to go somewhere. Does it deserve higher? Probably, but because of what's left, this was the only spot. Amazing wine. Simply incredible concentration and depth for a 16 year old Chardonnay without the word "Montrachet" on the label... Pure liquid honey and almonds with mind-blowing structure and completely balanced acidity and alcohol. I could drink this wine forever and I will always remember the taste. Yes, this wine has history for me, but in this year, that doesn't matter that much.

Since it might be a while, let's do #8 as well...

#8 - 1975 Chateau Petrus, Pomerol - What can one say about this wine? It is amazing Merlot. This is Petrus at its silkiest, at its most sublime. A tremendous amout of cedar with a powerful attack of blackcurrants, cocoa and black earth is amazing with a never-ending finish. This wine is mythical and lives up to the hype.

Well, only 7 to go... any guesses?

The Top 10

#10 - 1989 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti, Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy - How can Romanee-Conti only be #10?!?? As great as this wine was, and as much of a "wow" factor it had, there were 9 other wines that just left me speechless... this one left me with a ton of words (which is also a good thing!)... perhaps it was too young, but this was pure finesse mixed with power. Beautiful clove, strawberry and cherries with turned black earth, dried leaves and just an amazing finish. One of the great Burgundies I've ever had, but not the greatest.

Ok... Wine #11

Since I won't have time in the next few weeks to log on everyday or even every other day, I'm starting now...

#11 - 1990 Guigal Cote-Rotie "La Mouline", Northern Rhone Valley - tasted from 2 different bottles, one a week after the other. This wine is pure earth - this is what La Mouline is. 89% Syrah, 11% Viognier (that's the planting breakdown from the avg. 60 year old vines in the 1 hectare vineyard.) Lots of raspberries and a wonderful softness to this wine that the other La La's don't have. Very worthy of being in this spot.

Nice, not great, but nice

Treasure bath!!! The 1998 Sassicaia is so silky and pretty... what a soft, cedary, beautiful wine. One of the better Sassicaia's I've had. Lots of dried plums, black currant and clove. The 1993 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg was, well, pretty crappy. The nose was there, but perhaps a little barnyardy. The palate? Nothing... perhaps it needs time, perhaps it already had it's time. I tend to go with the first... hopefully.

Let the Countdown begin!

Ok, we'll go through my favorite wines #11-29 first. Why 29? Why not! Seriously, these are the wines that stood out from the rest. Narrowing these down wasn't that difficult. It was figuring out the top 10. They are all so close, except I think the top 10 did stand out a little bit more than some of the others. Then I'll begin the slow countdown from 10 to 1, with the top 3 all posted on the same day. Since the year isn't over yet, it is highly probable that the list will change depending on what else I get to try from here on out, and I still have the sommelier's Christmas party to go through...

#29 - 1990 Dom Perignon Rose Champagne, en Magnum - I had to add this one at the last minute. A pretty and powerful wine. Deserved the last minute add on...
#28 - 1999 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Champagne - clearly one of the great Champagne's I've ever tried. Say what you will about this much-hyped, over publicized Champagne, but the 1999 is the real deal. So much so that I'd love a bottle for my cellar to lay down for a few years. The length on this is simply amazing.
#27 - 1985 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Champagne, en Magnum - I expect that in 15 years the 1999 will be better than the 1985, but this year, the 1985 was gorgeous from Magnum. Beautiful brioche and toastiness and a great freshness about this wine.
#26 - 2004 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly "Silex", Loire Valley - Sauvignon on steroids... the greatest Sauvignon behind Haut-Brion Blanc made today. So flinty with piercing adicity. Amazing wine...
#25 - 1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese, Rheingau, Germany - WOW! While not the greatest Riesling I've ever had, it certainly is up there... always a treat to have such great examples of wine at this age. Incredible oilyness with such stony minerality and fresh fruit, I couldn't believe it was 30 years old. I only hope the 2005s age this well...
#24 - 1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshole Riesling Auslese, Pfalz, Germany - From 1991 until 2004, he made good, but not great Riesling. He's back now and the 2005 will be amazing. The 1990 is just starting to mature, but was so delicious, I couldn't pass this up on the list. An amazing baby...
#23 - 1989 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-St.-Vivant Morey Monge Grand Cru, Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy - This could have easily made it into the top 10 in just about any other year for me, but not this year. Mature? Doubtful, but it was absolutely perfect the night we tried this one. Clove and subtle, soft black cherries and strawberries. The best DRC RSV I've ever had.
#22 - 1976 Domaine Leroy Romanee-St.-Vivant Grand Cru, Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy - This is the best RSV I've ever had, period. Amazing how that works... This wine was so young and fresh, it's unfortunate that we only had one good bottle of this. The other 2 were so bad, it wasn't even funny. Such wonderful earth and spice, with loads of black cherries. A bit more body than the 89 DRC RSV, and it made the difference for me.
#21 - 1996 Gaja Sperss, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy - The first bottle was by far the best. Simply stunning Nebbiolo - truffles, rose petals, dried cherries and incredible depth and length. This is serious stuff.
#20 - 1998 Penfold's Grange, South Australia - This wine has closed down a touch, which is why it isn't in the top 10. It's just beginning to show the marked raspberry note that defines Grange as it matures, coupled with an old-world style earthiness. The length is amazing, and I dont' care what RP says, this is better than the 2001.
#19 - 1982 Chateau Cheval-Blanc, Premier Grand Cru Classe "A", St.-Emilion, France - I always say this is one of the best of the 1982 Bordeaux and I still say that. Fortunately (or unfortunately for this wine) I've gotten to try what I would consider the best of the 1982's this year (less one... but I have a feeling I'll open it soon, perhaps before the end of the year) so this wine got pushed around a little bit. The classic super-cedary quality and the silky, soft texture make this an amazing wine. Not bad for Cabernet Franc and Merlot...
#18 - 1953 Chateau d'Yquem, Premier Grand Cru, Sauternes - Tasted 3 times this year, with all three of the bottles in perfect condition. Pure joy in a glass. Simply stunning that a wine this old can be this fresh and yet so developed. While not a baby anymore, this still has years to go, too bad I sold all three...
#17 - 1988 Krug Champagne, en Magnum - Thank you, Remi Krug, for making Champagne like this. This is a major celebration in a bottle here. And in magnum, well, words don't do it justice.
#16 - 2000 Bouchard La Romanee Grand Cru, Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy - When we tasted it, we described it as "Romanee-Conti, sort of." A bit more elegance than Romanee-Conti (though I'm not exactly how I can say that... ah, I know) because it has slightly less weight (there we go). Cedar and clove, I'd love to try this again in a few years...

Ok, here's where the real dividing line occurs. Each of the wines below nearly brought me to tears and their ranking is pure emotional, as they are all perfect wines in my book. Some may have tiny faults, but the entire package was more than the parts.

#15 - 1985 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux Grand Cru, Flagely-Echezeaux, Burgundy - A perfectly mature, amazing Echezeaux. Certainly the best I've ever had. So much for lowely Echezeaux, the red-headed stepchild of Grand Cru Burgundy. Such terroir.
#14 - 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero, Spain - The best Spanish wine I've ever had, and with that, the best Vega Sicilia I've ever had. Immense and powerful, the current release (yup... just came out this year) is the stuff of legend. I think this wine still has tremendous potential and will only get better with time. Actually has the guts to be one of the top 3 this year, just not enough of "it".
#13 - 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap Disctrict, Napa Valley - What a treat and suprise this was. Only have 2 left, but we're saving those for a while. One of the most perfectly aged California Cabs I've ever had. It's good to know that some of the more modern-styled wines are aging so well (though I've been less than impressed with several more recent vintages that aren't aging as well - ah hem... 1997). Didn't think I'd ever get to try this one again.
#12 - 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle", Northern Rhone Valley - This is getting serious. While I've never had the 1990 or the 1978, I can't imagine that they might be better than the 1989, though everything I've read tells me they are. A spicy wine with dried leaves, meat, graphite, black wet earth and intense black plums. Made my palate dance! (FWIW, I had #'s 24 & 25 the same night as this!)

Ok, so I changed my mind. I'm going to do my favorite 11 wines of the year, why 11? Well, as the great Nigel Tufnel says "This is a top to a, you know, what we use on stage. But it's very very special because, if you can see... the numbers all go to eleven. Look, right across the board, 11, 11, 11, 11." Marty: "Most amps go up to ten." Nigel: "Exactly." Marty: "Does that mean it's louder? Is it any louder?" Nigel: "Well, it's one louder, isn't it? It's not ten. You see, most, most blokes gonna be playing at ten. You're on ten, all the way up, all the way up, all the way up." Marty: "Yeah." Nigel: "You're on ten on your guitar. Where can you go from there? Where?" Marty: "I don't know." Nigel: "Nowhere, exactly. What we do is if we need that extra push over the cliff, you know what we do?" Marty: "Put it up to eleven." Nigel: "Eleven. Exactly. One louder." Marty: "Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a litte louder?" Nigel: "These go to eleven." So my list goes to 11.

Amazing

First, the wines, which while not "amazing", were pretty darn good. The 2003 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero is pure mocha... great wine, too bad it was the last one. The 1997 Silverado Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was on its way out... not a great wine, but nice to try again. 1997 = mixed quality = many dying wines = not the great vintage that it seemed to be. The 1999 Veuve Clicquot Brut was pretty with lots of brioche and nuts. A nice champagne, just not great. The 1999 Veuve Clicquot Brut Rose had a lot more substance. A stong berry note came through the slight yeastiness of the wine. Nice. The 1985 Veuve Clicquot Brut Rose showed extreme bottle variation (I tasted each of them out of three different bottles). The first was completely oxidized. Just no fun at all. The other two were similar to each other, but showed none of the freshness of the wine I had last spring... Not recommended. The 1988 Veuve Clicquot Brut on the other had was sensational. Absolutely a great Champagne... loads of toast and rich yeastiness with baked pear and apples. Would love to have one in my cellar.

The really amazing part was the set Crazy Fingers played after work last night... wow. Mr. Charlie, Cassidy, Uncle John's Band>Jam>Eyes of the World>Foolish Heart> Cumberland Blues, U.S. Blues. At almost and hour and a half, this was one hell of a show. So spacy and completely out there. They had no idea where they were going after Uncle Johns and just played to an amazing crescendo and then went full-tilt into the most mind-blowing Eyes of the World I've ever heard... great stuff!

Just a few

The 1997 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases is a beauty... without question the best of the 1997 vintage in Bordeaux. Lots of mocha, plums, black fruit and graphite. Very soft and round... gorgeous! The 1997 Tassinaia, Tuscany is awesome!!! After several corked bottles, this one finally made it worthwhile - and it's a good thing, it was the last one!!! Lots of cedar, dried plums, cranberries and cherries. Awesome stuff!

The Finalists

Ok... Here we go... I divided it into their separate categories - Bordeaux, Burgundy, California, Champagne, Other, Sweet and White. I took the best of those groups and here you have the top wines in each category. They are not in any particular order... From here I'll start breaking them down by category. Just not today... I'm not quite ready yet.

Bordeaux
1955 Chateau Haut Brion
1975 Chateau Petrus
1982 Chateau Latour (Bottle #5)
1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild
1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc

Burgundy
1976 Leroy Romanee-St.-Vivant
1985 DRC Echezeaux
1989 DRC Romanee-Conti
1989 DRC Romanee-Saint-Vivant Morey Monge
2000 Bouchard La Romanee

California
1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon
2001 Harlan Estate
2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon

Champagne
1985 Louis Roederer Cristal (Magnum)
1988 Krug (Magnum)
1990 Krug (Magnum)
1999 Louis Roederer Cristal

Other
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle
1990 Guigal “La Mouline” Cote Rotie
1994 Vega Sicilia Unico
1996 Gaja Sperss
1998 Penfold’s Grange

Sweet
1953 Chateau d’Yquem

White
1999 DRC Montrachet
1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshole Riesling Auslese
1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese
1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne
2004 Dagueneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly "Silex"

The #1s

So have all 105 wines a score of 1, 2, or 3. 49 1's, 41 2's and 15 3's. The 2's and 3's are out... here are the 1' (in order from oldest to youngest).


1953 Chateau d’Yquem
1955 Chateau Haut Brion
1961 Chateau Latour
1975 Chateau Petrus
1976 Leroy Pommard Arvelets
1976 Leroy Romanee-St.-Vivant
1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese
1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc
1982 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
1982 Chateau Latour (#5)
1982 Chateau Margaux
1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild
1982 La Mission Haut Brion
1983 DRC Richebourg
1983 Reichgraff von Kesselstadt Schwarzhofberger Riesling Auslese
1985 DRC Echezeaux
1985 Louis Roederer Cristal (Magnum)
1988 Krug
1989 DRC Romanee-Conti
1989 DRC Romanee-Saint-Vivant Morey Monge
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle
1990 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
1990 Chateau Latour
1990 Dom Perignon Rose (Magnum)
1990 Dr. Burklin-Wolf Auslese Trocken
1990 Guigal “La Mouline” Cote Rotie
1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshole Riesling Auslese
1990 Krug
1990 Krug (Magnum)
1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne
1990 Montrose
1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon
1994 Vega Sicilia Unico
1996 Gaja Sperss
1998 Chateau Margaux Pavillon Blanc
1998 Penfold’s Grange
1998 von Buhl Forester Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslesen
1999 DRC Montrachet
1999 DRC Richebourg
1999 Guigal “La Landonne” Cote Rotie
1999 Guigal “La Turque” Cote Rotie
2000 Bouchard La Romanee
2001 DRC Richebourg
2001 Harlan Estate
2001 Shafer Hillside
2002 Chateau Latour
2002 Harlan Estate
2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley
2004 Dagueneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly "Pur Sang"

2006 WOTY

Wow, what a year it’s been… I’ve been fortunate enough to try some amazing wines the past 12 months. So, I’ve broken them down by month to start. Please keep in mind, the year ends December 31st, so there is a lot of wine left to try before my list is complete.

January
1985 DRC Echezeaux
1998 von Buhl Forester Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslesen
1990 Krug
2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet “Clavillons” 1er Cru
1999 Franz Herzberger Rotes-Tor Smaragd Gruner-Veltliner, Wachau
1953 Chateau d’Yquem
1961 Chateau Latour
1982 Chateau Latour
2001 Harlan Estate
2001 Shafer Hillside
1999 Jacques Prieur Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru
1976 Leroy Pommard Arvelets
1995 Araujo Eisele
1990 Guigal “La Mouline” Cote Rotie

February
1994 Stags Leap Wine Cellars “Cask 23”
1990 Krug (Magnum)
1990 Dom Perignon Rose (Magnum)
1986 Chateau Cheval Blanc
1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc
1995 Chateau Latour
1990 Dr. Burklin-Wolf Auslese Trocken
1982 Chateau Margaux
2000 DRC La Tache
MV ZD Abacus
2003 Louis Jadot Chateau de Jacques Clos de Rochegres Moulin-a-Vent Cru Beaujolais
1966 Chateau Latour
1982 Chateau Latour (#5)
1990 Chateau Latour
2002 Chateau Latour
2000 Bouchard La Romanee
2000 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Cru Clos Blanc de Vougeot Monopole
2000 Chateau Latour
1990 Montrose
1982 La Mission Haut Brion
1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild

March
1990 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
1999 DRC Grands Echezeaux
1955 Chateau Haut Brion
2003 Dagueneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly “Silex”
2001 DRC Richebourg
1999 J. Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet
1999 DRC Richebourg
1994 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon
1995 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill
2002 Louis Jadot/ Domaine du Duc de Magenta Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru "Morgeot" Clos de la Chapelle
1990 Alfred Gratien Brut
1975 Chateau Petrus
1983 DRC Richebourg

April
1995 Chateau Leoville Las Cases
1999 Antinori Solaia
1994 Penfold’s Grange
1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne
2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf Riesling Kirchenstuck
1976 Leroy Romanee-St.-Vivant
1985 Louis Roederer Cristal (Magnum)
1991 Ridge Monte Bello
1999 Guigal “La Turque” Cote Rotie
1955 Chateau Lafite Rothschild
1983 DRC Echezeaux
2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia
2001 Clos Mogodor (Priorat)
1999 Gaja Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino
2002 Penfold’s RWT Shiraz

May
2001 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon
1998 Chateau Figeac
1985 Chateau Haut Brion
1982 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
1998 Sassicaia
1990 Gruaud Larose
1990 Chateau Clinet
1998 Penfold’s Grange

June
1994 Vega Sicilia Unico
1989 DRC Romanee-Saint-Vivant Morey Monge
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle
1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshole Riesling Auslese
1983 Reichgraff von Kesselstadt Schwarzhofberger Riesling Auslese
1989 Chateau Montrose
1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese
1985 Chateau Leoville Las Cases,
1990 Chateau Pichon-Baron


July
1999 Guigal “La Landonne” Cote Rotie
1988 Krug
2004 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly “Pur Sang”
2001 Chateau Rieussec
1952 Chateau Margaux
2002 Harlan Estate
1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill

August
2002 Quintessa
2002 Spottswoode

September
1970 Chateau Latour
1999 Louis Roederer Cristal
1999 Louis Roederer Cristal Rose
1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon
2002 Lewis Cellars Alec’s Blend
1985 Charles Heidseick “Champagne Charlie”

October
1998 Penfold’s Grange
2001 Rochioli River Block Pinot Noir
1996 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill
1996 Gaja Sperss
1970 Graham’s

November
1989 DRC Romanee-Conti
1999 DRC Montrachet
1976 Chateau d’Yquem
2004 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Altenberg, Cuvee Laurence
2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley

This is why

I don't do my wines of the year until the end of the year. I know they have to because it takes so long to publish it, but I have the benefit of instant publishing!

The 1997 Comunali Brunello di Montalcino was about as pretty as I've ever tasted. The last bottle that we had, it was dried black fruits, cedar, dried leaves and cedar. A classic Brunello with lots of tannin (but nicely balanced). If I had a bottle or two of this, I would be drinking it now. Great. The 2003 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero, is awesome (as always), but was showing a little less intensity and a little more depth. Great wine with mocha, black plums, pepper, clove and vanilla. Yum. The 1999 Cristal was as before.

The wine of the night, and certainly a candidate for my top 10 is the 2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley. Wow. Opaque, with a purple-black center and little if no rim variation. About as intense a wine as I've ever seen (maybe the 2003 or 2000 Latour). On the nose - figs, black currants, black plums, graphite, stony-minerals, black earth, vanilla, and black pepper. On the palate - as above, but an incredible concentration and depth of flavors. The layers here are incredible. The only other California Cabernet that I've had that was better was the 2001 Harlan. The 2001 Hillside was good, but nowhere near this one. It's like this one goes to 11... Run away!!! One of the prettiest, yet biggest, most balanced (here is that balance thing again) wines I've ever tasted. Right before I opened it, the guest asked again - "This is a big Cabernet, right?" Nigh!!! Nigh!!! Bring me a shrubery!!! Sorry, back to the quest... This is why I would listen to Mr. Parker for California Cabs and not WS...

Vintage Comparison

Wow... some big names tonight. Not so much last night. Last night was a 1990 Pommard Pezerolles 1er Cru that was light but beautiful out of magnum. The 1999 Cristal needs to be put away for years... and was no match for the 1996 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Brut... so sweet with a long, elegant finish.

Tonight was the real fireworks though. The 1994 Guigal Hermitage Blanc rocks... such fresh melon, honeysuckle, pears and apples with tons of flowers and oak spice. A great, fresh wine at 12 years of age. Makes you wonder what's going on in California that a long-lived white is 4 years... Crazy. The 1983 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild stinks... a little corked, but the wine had no fruit. OTH. The 1982 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild was finally opening 3 hours after I decanted it... beautiful cedar. Not the best bottle, but really good. The 1983 Chateau Latour was good, but not spectacular. The magnums in February were far superior, but this bottle too was from the cellars of Chateau Latour. Perfect condition, just a light wine. The 1995 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases, IMO, was the wine of the night. So tightly wound, the cedar and power of Las Cases came through in this bottle. It needs another 10 years easily, but it has all of the stuffing to make you go cold turkey on any other Chateau (except Latour and the occaissional Margaux). Re-tasted the 1999 Cristal tonight with 24 hours of air and wow... what a difference. Amazing brioche and intense and powerful mid-palate with an incredible finish. An amazing wine.

Forgot a few things....

From this past weekend... The 1999 Gosset Grand Millésime Brut was pretty darn good bubbles... nice and yeasty with sage, biscuits and pears. Nice. The 2001 Domaine de Baumard Savienierres was nice. Not great, but nice. A touch of residual sugar kind of threw off the balance here, but lots of wet wool, stones, pear, apples, and apricots. Nice Chenin Bland.

Goodies

The 2002 Dauvissat Chablis Premier Cru "Montmains", half-bottle was so pretty. Lots of limestoney-minerals and pears with lemon and bright fruit... this wine will go for a long time. The 2002 Chablis are terrific... wish I had some. The 2004 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Altenberg, Cuvee Laurence, half-bottle is a simply rockin' Gewurz. So spicy and classic with a hint of residual sugar, but the balance is perfect. Lychee, tons of Bosc pear and graphite. Awesome wine... The 2003 Domaine Weinbach Altenberg Vendage Tardive was a bit alcoholic but very well balanced and a nice dessert wine.

Last Night

Ok... all of the tasting notes... The 1999 Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon was one of the best from this winery I've ever had. Lots of anise, blackberries and spice. A very nice finish... I'd be glad to have some of these in my cellar. The Champagne Ruinart Brut Rose NV (NOT Dom Ruinart) is outstanding... a pronounced berry flavor but completely dry. Very full bodied, arguable the best non-vintage Rose (along with Billecart-Salmon) on the market today. The 1985 Charles Heidseick "Champagne Charlie" is wonderful. So rich and yeasty, but plenty of apples and pears. Tiny little bubbles as well... outstanding. The 1999 Fontodi Syrah, Tuscany was ok. Not great, certainly not the 1996 but a wonderful wine nonetheless. Blackpepper and classic Italian dried fruits. Lovely.

The 1976 Chateau d'Yquem was awesome. Amber-brown in color in the bottle, it had a slight rose-color to it in the glass. The nose was pure botrytis, caramel and baked apricots. On the palate the wine had the slightest hint of TCA, but to be honest, it really didn't detract from the overall quality that much. Stony caramel, baked apples, honey and layers of exotic spices. A wonderful d'Yquem, though far from the best I've had. Two DRCs... the 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet is the single greatest white wine I have ever tasted. Still a baby, but it was giving so much. The DRC plot is entirely in Chassagne-Montrachet and the slightly rugged quality of that village comes through in this wine. It's a poweful, monolithic wine with layers and layers of Granny Smith Apples, Bosc Pear, unripe white peaches, honeysuckle, clove, cinnamon, lemon peel, tangerine, and pineapple. The palate was unbelievable... the length on this wine is astonishing, and it's likely that as this baby grows up, it will put on even more weight and length and would blow away just about anything else at the table. Simply stunning. Nearly equally as stunning and certainly among the greatest red wines I've ever had was the 1989 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti. This too is still young, but had a perfectly clean, amazing nose. It's been a few years since I've had Romanee-Conti, and it was what I remember (though the last one I had was the perfect 1985). Layers of clove, truffles, cedar, leather, spice box, cinnamon, strawberries, raspberries and rhubarb. The nose is completely exotic and is about as perfect a nose as I've ever had the pleasure to smell. The palate was exceptional, though perhaps fell a tiny bit short of the nose - I thing for no other reason than the wine still showed a bit of tannin and was clearly a baby. It could have been decanted and the palate might have opened up a touch, but I think the nose then would have died - and that's really what this wine was all about - the nose. The length was mindboggling and is a wonderful example of the greatest vineyard site in the world. To try either of these DRCs is an amazing experience. I can't even begin to describe the experience of trying both of these together. You will see both of these wines on my "Wines of the Year" list.

New Cocktail

Not really a cocktail, but after the night, I needed to have a drink just to try and take in what just happened (read above). My new drink? A double Patron tequila on the rocks (silver, please). Tonight? Probably Cabo Wabo on the rocks...

Wine Of The Year

Well, WS declared theirs... I'm not quite ready to put my list together yet, but there are a ton of strong contenders... at this point, my WOTY is between about 4 or 5 different things. I'll just have to see what my favorite is come January 1st. There is still a lot of wine to taste between now and then... As for WS, I think that they probably made a good choice. I was betting on the 2003 Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, but not a bad choice at #4. I have 1 bottle of the Kosta Browne RRV in my cellar (#8 - I think). I won't go near the 2003 Leoville-Barton or the 2003 Sauternes. As I haven't tasted the 2001 Casanova di Neri Tenuto Nuovo Brunello di Montalcino, I really can't comment on it. Except I know how Brunello falls in my favorite wines....

Forgot One

The 1952 Chateau Margaux (first one in a while) was pretty good. Just a hint of stewed fruit with nice cedar, violets, tobacco and leather.

Not a lot going on except

Had a great night last night for the bubbles... but first, the 1990 Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien is simply outstanding. One of the best drinking 1990 Bordeaux there is. So cedary - a very classic Gruaud Larose. The 1995 Opus One from 3L was showing as it was last spring. Lots of cedar, not a lot of fruit, maybe a hint of green. Not a great bottle of wine, but not bad either. The 1999 Opus One from 3L was much better, but still on the weak side. Lots of black plums, currants, cedar and anise. Those were all great, but the star of the show was the Champagne. First, a vertical of Taittinger Comte de Champagne Blanc de Blancs - 1995, 1996, 1998. The 1995 is a fairly full-bodied wine. Lots of toasty brioche and sour apples. Pretty... the 1996 is showing really well. Very biscuity with Granny Smith Apples, apricots, and toast. Very powerful for a BdB. The 1998 is relatively weak. Very floral on the nose with just hints of toast, the wine is less than outstanding on the palate (as most 1998s are). The 1999 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Rose from Magnum was excellent. A baby with very pronounced red berry notes, this needs time, but will drink well for a long time. The 1988 Krug from Magnum was outstanding - nearly bringing tears to my eyes. Simply one of the greatest Champagnes I've ever tasted... and yes, it was better out of Magnum than it was a few months ago out of bottle. Very oxidized classic Krug style - very elegant with toast, baked apples, white flowers and apricots. Layers and layers of fruit and spice. Amazing... Krug never dissapoints. The vintages are behave like they should - varying more from year to year - but all outstanding in their own right. I could drink another Champagne, but why would I want to?!? Completely blows away any of the other Champagnes I tasted last night.

Bolli

I love the Bolli... that's Bollinger Special Cuvee, Brut, NV... such a pretty, slightly oxidative nose. Not quite as intense as Krug (but at 1/5 the price, one would expect that). Also tried the last two bottles of 2003 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon and the wine is starting to shut... The 1996 Gaja Sperss (yup, another one) was not nearly as good as the first time around. This time it was completely shut and angular with none of the beauty of the first bottle... I'll give this one some time.

Vertical of Ports

Had a nice vertical of Port today... 1970 to 2003 (10 of them in that range). The 2003 Dow's is going to be exceptional... very long on the palate with pretty caramel and grapy qualities with loads of blackberry. The 2003 Graham's is a bit more dusty with cherries and plum and TONS of black pepper. The 1994 Dow's is a blockbuster... while not the Fonseca or Taylor Fladgate, it is one heck of a wine. Amazing depth and layers of fruit. The 1991 Dow's is a powerful, but pretty, wine. The 1985 Smith Woodhouse is a smooth, soft wine that needs time to reveal pretty caramel popcorn that is in the background. The 1983 Graham's has much higher acidity and freshness than even the 1985. Nice, but not great. The 1970 Graham's is gorgeous. Honeyed pear, citrus, candied plums, and caramel... loads of complexity. A good tasting...

Perfect Barolo

The 1996 Gaja Sperss is the greatest Italian wine I have ever tasted. Filled with tar, leather, truffles, black currant, cherries and rose petals. Such a delicate, powerful wine. Reminds me of a great Le Musigny - with more tannic power. The wine just completely envelops the palate and is amazing. I served it to a serious collector last night who proclaimed it (as did I) one of the 10 best wines they've ever had. As a side note, WS only gave this 89 Points... I don't know what they were tasting that day, but while this is not worthy of 100, it is far beyond that rating. ? Anyway... I'm excited to see how this wine develops over the coming decades (yup... if you have a few, open one now. If not... wait for a while. This is only a baby).

Fun Times (This post has nothing wine-related in it)

I know alot about beer... more than most people would ever want to know. Other than Michael Jackson (no, not the one with the glove), I think I met the uber-beer man the other day. Amazing knowledge. Not even in the beer business (does homebrew). Amazing person... Saw the band Crazy Fingers the other night - really killer. Amazing Grateful Dead cover band... brought me back... if you ever get a chance to check them out, do it. They play all over South Florida.

Fun Friday

Had a nice bottle of 2001 Argyle Sparkling Brut earlier in the week. A very nice wine from Oregon... good stuff at the right price. Last night the 1998 Chateau Beychevelle was green and short and quite thin. Not the best wine. The 1997 T.FX.T Arachon, Mittelburgenland, Austria (Merlot, Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch und Cabernet Sauvignon) was earthy and powerful with beautiful tannins and lovely mature fruit. A great wine from a very underappreciated region in a great vintage. The 1995 Chatau Mouton-Rothschild is just starting to open. Loads of cocoa and mocha with black currants and lots of tannin on the palate. I'm not selling another of these for another year or so. It took 2 hours to open.

From the Week

The 1996 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill is a simply awesome bottle of wine with decades of life left in it. One of the few California Cabs to need at least a decade of aging before it's approachable (ala Dunn). Lovely cedar with gripping tannins and tons of fruit. If only winemakes would follow this lead... Right now I'm having a glass of 2002 Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt Schwarzhofberger Riesling Spatlese. These 2002s are showing pretty petrol notes and lots of classic slate on the nose and palate, but they are missing the great length that defines truly great German Riesling. The 2001s are great... the 2002s, pretty good...

Saturday

1997 Gaja Costa Russi, 1999 Gaja Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino, 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1996 Chateau Pichon-Baron

Friends

A marvelous few days at the beach with great friends... 2002 Lewis Alec's Blend, 2004 Weinbach Cuvee Laurence Gewurztraminer, 2003 Newton Unfiltered, 2000 Chavy Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru, 2003 Turley "Hayne Vineyard" Petite Sirah, 2001 Rochioli River Block Pinot Noir, 2002 Kistler Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 1995 Frigalli Brunello di Montalcino, 2002 Artadi Vinas de Gain Rioja, 1999 Quilceda Creek, 2002 Dehlinger Pinot Noir, 2001 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir, 2003 Betz "Clos de Betz", 2003 Betz Syrah "La Serenne", 2001 Col Solare.

Sorry...

I've been really not keeping up with this... not that much great wine in the last week either... except for Tuesday night. The 2002 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux is so dominated by wood, that the pretty strawberry, raspberry and earth perfume almost couldn't penetrate... right now the wine is unbalanced and acidic. Give it a few years before opening... the 1998 Penfold's Grange on the other had is tremendous. Simply amazing wine. Black raspberry with tons of clove, vanilla, black pepper... amazing depth and layers of fruit. It's 8 years old and tastes like it was just bottled... give it a decade.

Is it September or February?

Busy, busy night... First, I'll comment on the bottles of 1994 Shafer Hillside Select. I am stunned at both the consistency and the sheer power that this wine posesses at 12 years of age. I had previously tasted the 1991, the 1997, the 2000 and the 1994 in a vertical with Doug Shafer and it was my favorite then... the 1991 had died, the 1997 had died (yup... one of the great tragedies was the over-hyped 1997 vintage.) but the 1994...

Last night... the 1999 Fontodi Syrah was good, but a bit oxidized with ripe raisins and prunes. None of the black earth that I associated with past vintages of this wine. We'll see if another bottle reveals the same thing. The 2001 (magnum) and 2002 (750ml) Sonoma-Cutrer "Les Pierres" were both outstanding. Those of you that know me know my general disdain for California Chards, but this is not like "the other ones"... it's clean, minerally - in the model of a premier-cru Puligny-Montrachet. For R & A, the 2002 was better - I personally thought though the 2001 showed more oak on the nose, on the palate there was less prevalant alcohol and more length and depth of flavors than the 2002. The 1997 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon (magnum) was dead... not completely shot, but just not anything special. Two different bottles of 2003 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon were pretty... very sweet style with perhaps a bit less concentration that this wine can achieve in its best vintages. Still wonderful.

Tequila!

Wow... that is some good stuff... Cabo Wabo is it... even the Silver is awesome... The Reposado rocks, and the Anejo is other-worldly.

Wine? Sure.... This week saw 3 bottles of 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon go out. Each bottle was different, but all of them had one thing in common - they were all extremely youthful and they were all incredible bottles of wine. Cedar, anise, graphite, black plum, crushed rocks - about as complex as any wine I've ever had. One of the 2 or 3 best wines I've ever had from California.

More

Another 1994 Shafer Hillside Select... and 1985 Charles Heidseick "Champagne Charlie"...

Too long

Too busy... 1994 Shafer Hillside Select CS (2x), 1998 Caymus SS, 1990 Gruaud Larose

A Night At Home

with friends... the 1990 Alfred Gratien Brut is awesome... a completely oxidized style (even moreso than Krug) with tons of teeny bubbles. Beautiful in the mouth... a great Champagne. The 2001 Hacienda Monasterio Crianza, Ribera del Duero had loads of smoke, dirt, leather, and mocha. A pretty wine in a somewhat flamboyant style for Spain... the 2002 Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend was all that I hoped for. Decanted for 2 hours, this wine really opened with with classic Lewis extraction and silky texture. Black plums, sweet fruit and hints of cedar. Showing beautifully... I don't think it will get much better than that...

Saturday Night

Got a suprise the other day in my order, and we sold one on Saturday Night... I'v long considered the 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon one of the best Cabs I've ever had from California. I hadn't tasted it in roughly 2 years - and I am pleased to say it is still improving. A beautiful cedary nose with black plums, black currant, and anise. The wine is showing just hints of browning on the rim, but nothing significant. On the palate, the cedar gives way to the powerful black fruit and graphite that I associate with Stags Leap District wines. A gorgeous wine with tons of power and lots of life left, though I think this wine is perfect right now, I wouldn't hold them! The 1999 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rose has all of the hallmarks of a great rose - when it finally matures in 10-15 years. This is a baby and is not giving up much except some sweet strawberries on the nose. The non-rose 1999 Cristal is showing much, much better. The 2003 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon has started to lighten and show some elegance along with all of that class. A beauty (still)...

Singular

2001 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvingnon Reserve, Napa Valley - a deeply concentrated, slightly-cedary Cab with decent balance - the alcohol, though only 14.2% came off much hotter than that really was. Other than that, I could drink it...

One More

Forgot this from Saturday night... the 1999 Louis Roederer Cristal is one of the most mind-boggling young Champagnes I've ever had. I am not usually a lover of young Cristal, but this was sharp - very full with some real richness and an incredible mid-palate that went on into a long and smooth finish. Lots of pear and toast, with just a little bit of yeastiness coming out - if you have a few bottles, hold them for at least 5 years, but I think this wine will still be getting better in 20....

Just One

and it's a beer... but a great beer... Orval Trappist Ale rocks... not as heavy as Chimay's Reserve or Special Reserve, but almost more mouth-filling. Tons of fruit (citrus) and flowers... expensive, but wonderful.

One Fine Day (or Night)

hmmmm.... wine... The 1995 Chateau Talbot was not the best bottle... not sure what happened with it other than perhaps it was still a bit shaken from delivery (got them in a week ago). Showing massive earth, cedar and leather with little of the black plum that I love about this wine. Not a great wine by any means. The 2003 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero is still a blockbuster... tasted this a few weeks ago with similar notes (although this bottle showed a bit more mocha than the last... I think this was even better). The 1995 Monsanto "Il Poggio" Chianti Classico Riserva is a baby... loads of underbrush (twigs, dried leaves) with a healty amount of oak and dried cranberries. A long finish... one of the greatest CCRs out there... try the 1968 - it's spectacular. The 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux is beautiful... after a few hours it really opened up revealing clove, turned earth, ripe wild strawberries, raspberries and rhubarb. A long, long elegant finish to this fabulous wine... it's only getting better!!! Last, but certainly not least... a wine I vastly underrated and criticized the other time I tasted it... Clearly the greatest young Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine I've ever tasted... even more opulent and robust than the 2001... the 2002 Harlan Estate has blossomed into an amazing, mouth-filling, super-concentrated, weighty monster. Maybe just a little less balanced than the 2001, but I attribute that to it's more-concentrated, powerful style that hasn't completely come together yet (which is scary). This wine is everything anyone could ever want out a young Cabernet. Of all of the "perfect" California wines, this takes the cake by far... better than 1997 Bryant, 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb, 2001 Harlan, 2001 Shafer Hillside Select, 2002 Vineyard 29, 2001 Pride Reserve Claret, 2001 & 2002 Paul Hobbs Beckstoffer-To-kalon - this is the stuff. I am completely amazed at the transformation this wine has had in the last few weeks... I wish I had a bottle - because I'd wait one more year - then I would drink it. Don't wait... This is California at it's finest... by the way, I've officially pushed the 1982 Chateau Latour to the top of my list... with the 2002 Harlan in second, followed by the 2001 Harlan, than the 1961 Chateau Latour (notice a trend?)... these are the two best Cabernet producing estates in the world, without question.

First Day Back

from being closed for a few days... The 2003 Louis Jadot Clos des Duc Magenta Chassagne-Montrachet "Morgeot" 1er Cru was exceptional... one of the finest 2003 White Burgundies I've had... while still a little ripe with a touch too much alcohol, the wine showed elegance and class behind all of that power. Let it sit for another year, then drink up! Honeysuckle, pear, peach, and apples with a slight lemony-mineral finish. The 1970 Chateau Latour was very good, not spectacular. As I continue to read up on this monumental wine, I am finding that there is quite a bit of bottle variation. I would attribute the less-than-stellar performance of this wine to just that - a not so great bottle. The fill was wonderful, at the base of the neck. The fruit was lost for the most part with just spice and cedar notes (actually, almost Lafite-like in the amount of cedar on this wine). a powerful, brooding finish though.

A Gusty (sort of) Day

Well that was a big pile of nothing... better safe than sorry, I guess. Drank a bottle of NV Roederer Brut last night... my favorite of all of the house cuvees. Nice toastiness, crisp finish, not too rich, but just a little hint of creaminess. The right price too...

Yahtzee!

Not a night for great wines (though a few went out, I didn't taste the 1997 Gaja Costa Russi again)... the 2000 Keenan Chardonnay was done... very bitter, not a nice bottle of wine. It's a shame this estate went where it did, but my goodness - these wines have come back since 2002. Try the '02 reds - spectacular stuff. Just down Spring Mountain Road from Pride... The 1996 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafite (rouge) was good - a beautiful Graves nose with cedar, crushed stone and black fruits. Unfortunately, the finish was a touch rough - a bit of underripe tannins. The 2005 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is ripe, jammy and powerful. Not quite as balanced as the 2004 which was superb, this wine needs a good year for things to start to come together. The 2003 Patz & Hall "Hyde Vineyard" Chardonnay (magnum) displayed lots of butterscotch, peach, ripe apples and clove. The oak needs to integrate better as the finish was a bit dry with loads of oak spice. I think in a year or two this wine will eventually sort itself out and become fabulous. The 2000 Domaine Serene "Evenstad Reserve" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon (3-Litre) is fully mature and was beautiful... lots of black and red fruits, though much more earth-driven at this time - clove, black earth and cinnamon. Great stuff, especially out of the big bottle.

Yummy

The 2002 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley is starting to shine... tasted a few months ago, this wine was closed, but the potential was there. Now the wine is opening and showing beautiful graphite and anise notes along with very concentrated black plums and currants. Great wine with a very, very long finish. The 2003 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero, Spain is an amazing wine... I haven't had this before last night and I am completely blown away. Though a thin-skinned grape, the amount of extraction in this wine is immense. Very, very floral - it seems like it should be an extremely powerful wine, but along with the power is very refined elegance. Lots of violets on the nose - an extremely floral wine - with lots of smoke as well. Beautiful!

Viognier

2002 Francois Villard Condrieu Le Grand Vallon was a tangerine & honey fest in a glass! Almost too powerfully tart in the beginning... gave way once it warmed and opened up. An ok wine, not my favorite from this incredible producer.

Champagne

The 1995 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose was, for lack of a better descriptor, dissapointing. Some nice yeasty notes on the nose with hints of strawberries, but on the palate, the wine is simply flat (not literally, it still has tiny bubbles). No life, no pizzaz, pretty boring actually.

Nightfall of Diamonds

2000 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (magnum) is a cloudy, oaky, rich, minerally Chardonnay from one of my favorite producers. I think they have gotten better since the 2002 vintage, but this bottles shows what they can do. Great stuff... The 2003 Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques Clos de Rochegres Moulin-a-Vent is showing more and more Beaujolais-esqe signs, though it still possesses a large amount of oak spice on the nose and palate. A powerful, concentrated, outstanding wine! The 1998 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvingon (magnum) could be the best wine I've had from this vintage. Just a little hint of green pepper on the nose, with lovely cedar and black currants with classic Special Selection silkiness. I think it has held up nicely out of magnum. The 2002 Bond "Melbury" however, completely blew it away. This wine is starting to shut a tiny bit, but otherwise, the tasting notes are the same as they have been.

Somefolks Look For Answers...

others look for wines! The 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne was pretty. No where near the complexity and overall power of the 1990, but still a pretty wine. Very nutty with lots of butterscotch and honey. A rich, minerally finish with tons of lemon (a LL hallmark...) The 1990 Chateau Certan de May, Pomerol was good, but very, very cedary. Almost so cedary that I believe that it masked a slight bit of corkiness... It didn't smell like cork, but the mid-palate was short and the finish lacked the usual Pomerol finesse. The star of the night (as it is pretty much whenever we get a chance to open one) was the 1955 Chateau Haut-Brion. While not the best bottle we've had (we put this one at number 3), this wine continues to astound me. Full of smokey bacon-fat and gravel. This just blew up after 15 minutes into pretty cedar and had a tremendous, powerful finish. Awesome stuff... always a treat.

Here we go...

Sorry about the delays... been a busy few weeks. Last night, the 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia was big and bold - a very extracted, full-throttle, Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blockbuster. Very intense... showing much better than the 2002 right now. Thursday night... the 1997 Jarvis Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon shows what a little restraint can do for a great wine. While I still completely feel that the 1997 Vintage in California could be the single most over-rated vintage ever, there are some wines that are still showing their stuff. This is one of them. Good extraction, but not over-the-top with alcohol. Lots of black fruits with hints of cedar and dried leaves. Soft, ripe tannins. Good, but drink them soon. From Tuesday, one wine that still has years and years left in it is the mind-boggling 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne. Still the greatest Chardonnay I've ever had, this wine continues to evolve - slowly. Loads of butterscotch, honey, minerals, hazelnuts and lemon and a very long, intense finish. Beautiful!!! The 2002 Quintessa is as it's been the last few months - the best Quintessa made to date. I won't re-hash the same review. If you have these wines, drink them young! The 1986 Chateau Cos d'Estournel is showing beautifully. I've tasted this wine upwards of 10 times, but this was clearly the class of the bottles I've had. It took a good 45 minutes to open up, then showed notes of forest floor, cassis, dried leaves, black plum, and cedar. A classic St.-Estephe wine with the typical rustic character. A good wine, especially at 20 years of age! The 1982 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild is generally my least-favorite of all of the 1982 First Growths. While the wine is definitively Lafite with loads of cedar and cigar box, after an hour, this wine just sort of went "plonk" - and was gone! This bottle was not as good as many others I've had, but still... it just wasn't incredible. It was at first, with tremendous elegance and a long, long finish. But then the finish shortened up, the mid-palate went away and I was sort of dumbfounded. Nice to try it again though... In case you were wondering, of the "Great 7" red Bordeaux wines, here is how I rate them in the 1982 vintage... 1. Chateau Latour 2.Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 3.Chateau Cheval-Blanc 4.Chateau Petrus 5.Chateau Margaux 6.Chateau Haut-Brion 7.Chateau Lafite-Rothschild

Back In The Saddle Again...

Tomorrow look for tasting notes on... 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1986 Chateau Cos d'Estournel, 2002 Quintessa, and 1997 Jarvis Reserve Cabernet Sauvingon, plus thoughts on German and Austrian wines...

A busy week...

And a great night... Did a 4 course wine pairing this evening, where I got to choose the bottles... one of my absolutely favorite things to do. The 2004 Rudi Pichler Hochrain Gruner-Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria is a ball of white pepper waiting to be unwound... Pears, apples, apricots on the nose with hints of the "pepper"... on the palate, it's all pepper. An amazingly spicy wine, but killer stuff from one of the Austrian greats. The 2002 Archery Summit Red Hills Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon is good... it still needs time. I am still waiting to be completely blown away by an Oregon Pinot Noir. This is not it, though it is very good and went nicely with the dish. The 2003 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley is amazing wine for being his "low-end" Cab. Dense like Lewis, but not quite as intense and a much longer, drawn-out finish. The mid-palate on this wine is mind-blowing. Amazing extraction. What do Paul Hobbs, Heidi Barrett (Screaming Eagle, Jones Family, etc), Helen Turley (Marcassin, Turley), Bob Levy (Harlan), Philipe Melka (Bryant Family, Lail, Vineyard 29, etc) and Bob Foley (Pride, Switchback Ridge, Hourglass, etc) have in common? They are the top six Cabernet Sauvignon winemakers in California right now...

Wines from Home

the 2001 Rene Mure Gewurztraminer is a simple, easy wine... completly dry and full-bodied with lychee spiciness and richness that you would expect from an Alsace Gewurztraminer in a classic vintage. Not going to blow you away, but a very nice drink... The 1986 Chateau Talbot was without question the single best bottle of this St.-Julien 4th Growth that I've ever had. Very full and showing notes of cedar, tobacco, leather, graphite, cassis and black plum on the long, elegant finish. This wine went on and on forever... I was even more amazed this wine was great as the fill level was mid to top shoulder(!). I brought a backup of the 1989 Chateau Beychevelle, and this wine, while good, was like drinking water compared to the incredibly complex Talbot. Black plums, a little cedar, and black earth. This wine is rated higher by virtually everyone, but it was not showing its best today.

Nice Wines

The 1995 Chateau Talbot is showing very pretty... while I'd venture to guess it's not going to get much better than it is now, it should hold this peak for quite a while. Lots of cedar, tobacco, and black plums with cassis on the finish. A very, very nice wine. Tonight, the 1998 Ornellaia was showing so much better than the other night. This one had black plums, black currants, dried leaves, and tobacco, but the wood elements were not so overpowering. This is the 1998 Ornellaia that I knew... But I have to wonder about the significant bottle variation I've seen in this wine the last 4 times I've tasted it. What's going on? The 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie "La Landonne" is a blockbuster... massive in every sense of the word. One of the great Syrahs I've ever tasted. While a bit closed, the structure and the power were incredible. Notes of meat, bacon, black pepper, tar, tobacco, and black cherries. This wine is but a baby and will age for decades. While I'm sure this wine will be better at some point down the road, I would imagine the evolution will take at least a decade - too bad this was the only bottle. This shows why Guigal is the master of Cote-Rotie, and La Landonne may be the best of the three La-La's in 1999.

As a note, I continue to find myself drawn to these beautiful, Burgundy-like Cote-Roties of the Northern Rhone Valley. Like great Barolo and Barbaresco, these wines, though massive, have such finesse attached to their power, such elegance to balance out the otherwise incredible concentrations that they remind me of some of the great Burgundies I've ever tasted. The only thing they are missing is the haunting aspect of delicacy that a great Richebourg or La Tache possess - the fact that in one minute, these wines can turn from greatness to nothing in seconds. The Northern Rhones don't seem to have that... they only seem to become more alive. This is why I love wine...

Last Few Days

Tonight, the 1990 Dom Perignon "Oenetheque" (their version of RD) shows a gorgeous, classic Dom nose of hazelnuts with pretty brioche and yeast... Delicate and very much a finesse-driven wine. Apricots and pears mostly... a long, elegant finish. Very good, but not stunning... it's no 1988 Krug, for instance... Tuesday, the 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia is still shut... continue to give it time. The 1998 Ornellaia however, was completely and utterly... underwhelming. Yes, it has a long, balanced finish. Yes, it has vibrant acid and a pretty nose. What is so underwhelming about it? The fact that the wine is showing so much wood that it tastes like a 2x4!!! There is a little bit of fruit, but I'm amazed at what this wine has turned into in the last 12 months. I hope that this bottle was a freak, but I don't think so... I've never been all that impressed by it and wouldn't imagine it improving much.

Wowzers...

Just when you think it's safe to go back into the cellar... out come some old (and new) favorites. The 2004 Peter Michael "Le Cairriere" Chardonnay rocks... tons of baked apples, peaches, and apricots with a good bit of mineral elements creeping through the creamy finish. A fabulous bottle of California Chardonnay (tasted 3 bottles, all with similar notes). The 2003 Kosta Browne Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir is a rockstar... powerful, but with beautiful purity of fruit and fabulous balance. Red cherries, strawberries and plums screaming from the glass. This wine, I would imagine, has not settled down much since it was bottled. The 2002 Bond "Melbury" is as awesome as it was a few weeks (or maybe it was a week?) ago. Concentrated and powerful, this wine is amazing now and will continue to improve for a while. I would imagine this wine will shut down much as the 2001 did and hopefully emerge even more complex than it is now. Tasted now twice, the 1953 Chateau d'Yquem is what wine is all about. The purity, complexity, and sheer opulence comes shooting out of the glass. This wine continued to improve after 90 minutes in the glass. Apricots, peaches, and pears (all baked and stewed) with the perfect balance between acid, sweetness, and alcohol that leaves most everyone speechless. Simply a stunner and I feel fortunate to have been able to try this wine not once, but twice now, with similar notes each time. This wine will last another 30 years easily.

Pinot

The 2002 Martinelli "Bella Vigna" Pinot Noir, Sonoma was fantastic, as almost all of my experiences with their Pinot Noir's have been. While high in alcohol (14.8%), the wine showed hints of elegance tied in with all of that power. Martinelli has a signature richness - an almost thick quality - on the mid-palate that I don't find in anyone else's wines - almost strawberry Jolly Rancher.

Yummmmmmmm

Here we go...Wednesday night was awesome... amazing company, great food, and of course, a bottle of 1988 Krug. This wine is so oxidative - so rich. It's simply an incredible bottle of Champagne and goes down as one of my favorites I've ever drunk. Maybe not quite as good as the 1990 in the long run, but it's drinking better today. The finish is so long and rich with fruit-sweetness. The 1997 Chateau Lafite Rothschild is what you would expect from an off-vintage. A classic Lafite nose, but not terribly powerful. Green tannins on the back.

Last night as the 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia which is outshining the 2002 at the moment, though that will change as the 2002 comes together. Similar wines, but the 2001 is a touch lighter and less penetrating. Black fruits and tons of oak with loads of anise and mocha.... 1990 Chateau Gruaud-Larose is a stunning wine. Full of cedar and cigar box with truffles. Awesome. Such a long finish with black plums, figs and blackcurrants. Hints of cassis as well. Wonderul, baby of a wine.

Champagne!!!

Not that I tried any... just on my mind. The 2003 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is as good as usual... thick, rich, and concentrated. Awesome stuff... After work had the 2003 Dr. Burklin Wolf Estate Riesling, Pfalz... a great, dry Riesling (all of his rieslings are dry)... showing hints of petrol, loads of minerals, baked apples and apricots. Great stuff...

Fun Times All Around!

The 2004 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Pur Sang rocks... had a better taste of this wine this time. It'a really showing great minerality and is so clean... classic, rich, Pouilly-Fume. One of the best Sauvignon Blancs I've ever had. As I've talked about before, the 2004 Patz & Hall Pinot Noirs are amazing... The Hyde Vineyard (in 750 vs 375 - there is a difference) is as intense and powerful a young California Pinot as I've ever had. Ripe strawberries, raspberries and plums. Lots of oak - but it's all integrated. This is a Pinot monster and it's only getting better. I love the 1996 Muga Prado Enea Rioja Gran Reserva, but it hasn't changed much since I last tasted it (but I still love it!!!), so I won't talk about it. Refer to previous tasting notes. We discovered the secret to the 2000 Hatton Estate Tahi - don't decant it!!! The other night, the bottle died in the decanter. Not this time. Decanted 5 minutes before serving, this wine was powerful and pretty - just as I remember it. A great bottle of wine. But, the wine of the night was the 2001 Chateau Rieussec (375ml). The last bottle that we have... this wine has started to round out and is an amazing expression of terroir and is a classic sweet wine. Tons of botrytis, loads of minerals, with an incredible, dynamic finish that lasts for 90+ seconds. Amazing, amazing wine.

I NEED RIESLING!!!

You know how you get that hankering for something... well, I've got it for killer Riesling right now... I need some Robert Weil!!! The oily, minerality - the crisp acid - the pretty peaches and pears and apricots - oh my!!! Instead, the 2000 Hatton Estate "Tahi", Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels sub-region was not as good as I last remember it to be... I won't be decanting this wine anymore... it smells initially like Pichon-Lalande, then fades to Southern Hemisphere Raspberry (that's a technical term, FYI...) Long on the finish... needs less air. Drink it now... the 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, however, is shutting down for a long winter's nap. Don't touch it for at least 2 years. The nose is power, the palate is concentrated, but slightly unbalanced... the fruit will come around on this monster, it is just going to take some time. Great wine... I won't be opening mine for a long time.

Smiles All Around...

The 1955 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild was awesome. Clearly the best bottle of this that I've had, it took a good 15 minutes to really open up. Awesome cedar, clove and tons of Lafite tobacco, with sweet cherry fruit... drank like a 25 year old wine, not a 50 year old wine. Very, very nice... the 2003 de Trafford Strohwein, Stellenbosch, South Africa rocks... I've always loved this extraordinary vin de paille. Sweet baked apricots and unctour peaches. A great, long, lingering finish... sweet without being cloying.

One More (Good) Saturday Night...

Fun... Fun... It's been a few months since we've had it, so the 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache... hasn't changed much. Oh well... a great bottle of wine. Strawberries, cherries, roses, clove - all of the classic La Tache notes. I found my new house Champagne... the NV Delamotte Brut rocks. It's so yeast and bready with a clean, slightly creamy finish of pears and Granny Smith Apples. Kind of like Salon Jr... oh wait, it IS Salon jr.! Go figure... But it is great stuff for the $$. Completely forgot (not sure how!!!) the 1952 Chateau Margaux. Without question the 2nd best bottle that I've had of this... sold it for a song. So cedary with sweet cherries, violets and plums. A long, long, elegant finish to this wine at 54 years of age. Didn't last but 15 minutes in the glass, but still, a great wine.

No Pinot Noir for you!

Usually when R & I are on fire, there is a lot of Pinot Noir that goes out (Burgundy, Oregon, New Zealand, California). None. Zero. Zilch. All Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot based wines. No complaints though... The 1995 Chateau l'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, was slightly corked (though easily mistakable for the cedar qualities that develop in the older Bordeaux), and very bretty (Brettanomyces claussenii - a yeast strain that causes a fault in wine. An almost dirty, super-mushroomy, earthy, unclean nose. It's also the yeast strain used in the production of Guiness Stout.) Those two things together completely killed the wine for me... I've had it before and it's a great wine, this just wasn't a good bottle. The 1990 Chateau Pavie-Decesse, St.-Emilion started out as a beautiful cedar and cigar box full-bodied wine with lots of black plum and dried leaves. After about 20 minutes, it was gone... Very pretty, a very nice wine, just not a great wine. The 1998 Chateau Figeac, St.-Emilion is fabulous... perhaps the 4th or 5th time I've tasted it this year, this wine is massive. Coffee beans, cocoa, black plums, black currants, cassis, and just showing hints of cedar. The wine is huge right now - though it is not overly tannic. The 1998 Right Bank wines are so undervalued. I wish we had more of this, but unfortunately, we are out. I might have to pick a few up for my own cellar. Great stuff.

Now that the Bordeaux are out of the way... we also had the opportunity to taste two wines from arguably the greatest Estate in California - Bond and Harlan. The 2002 Bond Melbury is a classic Bill Harlan wine. How they get the concentration that they get in these wines blows me away. Drinking almost like a great bottle of Penfold's Grange, this wine has notes of black pepper, raspberry, black plum, cocoa, and figs. It was sweet, but the concentration was so thick. The tannins are soft and round, and the finish goes on and on... It only falls a tiny bit short of one of the great wines of the world, and one of the best wines from California I've ever had... the 2002 Harlan Estate. We've had these bottles in for about a month and were waiting for the right time to sell one. While the wine is great (I'll get into specifics in a second), I think we'll wait a while before selling another. The wine has nearly the same nose as it's little brother - minus the raspberries. No where near as fruit-forward, this wine is slightly closed with notes of cocoa, black plum, figs, pepper, anise, and cassis. Harlan Estate is making wines close to that of Chateau Latour. While definitively California, it has a certain earth-element that drives the wine, versus the pure lush fruit of the Bond. The concentration in the mouth is immense, with layers and layers of components consuming every part of your mouth. Instantly stains the teeth purple. While a great bottle of wine, I do not think that this wine is as good, nor will it be as good, as the 2001. I am generally more of a fan of the super-concentrated 2002s vs the fruit-forward and slightly lavish 2001s. But the 2002 does nto appear to be as balanced as the 2001. Maybe in time it will flesh out somewhat and really gain weight and body on the midpalate, but right now the attack is immense, followed by a slightly hollow midpalate and then a long, concentrated, if not slightly tannic, finish. The alcohol and acid are balanced, the tannins appear a little higher and the fruit needs to be more integrated. Give it time. This baby is not going anywhere anytime soon, so if you have some, hold them. Not among my top 5, but among the top 10. 100 points? doubtful... maybe 99 though.

I Have Seen The Next Great Thing, and It is...

Cru Beaujolais!!! Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Chenas, Julienas, St. Amour, Regnie, Chiroubles... Wowowowowow.... This is it... this is the stuff. It's cheap (for now), it's readily available, and it's killer!!! The producers are learning how to use oak, and they are using it in the correct amount!!! Goodbye maceration carbonique... hello whole cluster barrel fermented Gamay!!! Ever since the great Beaujolais vintage of 2003 (I despise this vintage just about everywhere else...), the Cru Beaujolias have been on a hot streak. Making awesome wines that will age (and improve!). 2003 Louis Jadot Clos de Rochegres Moulin-a-Vent, 2003 Chateau de Pierreux Brouilly... both see a good bit of new oak, but the classic bubble-gum characteristic of Beaujolais (and Gamay for that matter) is still there. Get ready for it... these wines rock!!!

Competition and Vacation

Now that I finally have a little time, I will try to update everything that has gone on in my life in the last 3 weeks - wine wise anyway. First, a trip to Santa Rosa California for the finals of the Best Young Sommelier in America. But before the actual competition, there was wine to taste! An amazing experience at Kosta Browne started things off. Many, many barrel samples. Whole cluster fermentation vs. free-run juice, Hungarian Oak vs. French Oak, new vs used oak, Pinot Noir Clone 777 vs Clone 23 vs Pommard 5... one of the great winery experiences in my life. Did I mention that they are making KILLER Pinot Noir? While it's relatively high-octane stuff, it is balanced and the wines are amazing. Then on to Forman where we tasted the less-intense, but more rose-petals and wild strawberry than the jammy quality of the Kosta Browne. Two great producers. Great wines.

At dinner that night we had a vast array of Italian wines, but frankly, I was too anxious for the competition to get started to really write any of them down... did have my first Cersuolo di Vittoria from Sicily (a new DOCG), great stuff... made from Frapetto and Nero d'Avola.

The competition was very intense and very exhausting. Afterwards, had quite a few beers... The Old Tire Ale was awesome on draft... perfect for a HOT (101) afternoon! On to dinner, where I found out that I did not place, but I did finish in the top 5, which I was pretty happy with. Cheers to the winner... he certainly deserved it. Many Advanced Sommeliers and quite a few that had previously sat for the MS exam. After dinner, V grabbed me and took me out to get, well, hammered. All of the other competitiors were there and we all had a great time. New friends, great experience. Great time. Would do it again in a second if I could.

After that... a week at the lake!!! So, I went from Palm Beach > Las Vegas > Palm Beach (rest 1 day), Palm Beach> Sonoma>New Hampshire in a week... Lots of time on the airplane!!! My wife picked me up from the airport and drove the 45 minutes to the house... Our good friends joined us for a week of relaxation... all of the wines that we had were amazing... I can't think of one that was even mediocre. I'll just list them, then at the end, put my 5 favorites. Mumm Cordon Rouge (magnum), 2004 Kosta Browne Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshole Riesling Auslese (two bottles), 1983 Reichgraff von Kesselstadt Schwarzhofberger Riesling Auslese, 1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese, 1995 Nederberg Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, 1989 Chateau Montrose, 1990 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Sizeranne, 1985 Chateau Leoville Las Cases, 1982 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, 1988 Chateau Pichon-Baron, 1990 Chateau Pichon-Baron, 1986 Chateau Cos d'Estournel, 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle... that's not complete but I need to find my list to get everything correct. I'll come back and complete this section...

1976 (completed)

I know I need to write details of some of the wines I've tasted lately, but I'd rather do this... my own version of the 1976 Paris Tasting. I put together a list of the best wines I've had from different regions around the world... and I'll face them off against each other... My beef with the most recent Paris tasting was that it was done with very old (and many I would presume, very tired) wines. In the last 30 years the wine industry has changed so much that a modern tasting of modern styles of wines would be like comparing apples and oranges, unless you're using a freakish vintage like 2003. First, the best Bordeaux wines I've ever had are... 1961 Chateau Latour, 1982 Chateau Latour, 1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 1982 Chateau Cheval-Blanc, 1990 Chateau Margaux, 1982 Chateau Pichon-Lalande, 1955 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1975 Chateau Petrus, 1990 Chateau Latour, and 1989 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion. Compare those to the best California Cabs or Blends I've ever had... 1968 BV Georges de Latour, 2001 Harlan Estate, 1997 Bryant Family, 1997 Colgin Herb Lamb, 2001 Shafer Hillside Select, 1985 Joseph Phelps Backus, 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, 1991 Caymus Special Selection, 1987 Dominus, 1997 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon. Which list is better? Overall, Bordeaux. But the top? 2001 Harlan Estate. So, California wins the race, but looses the competition. Now, lets move on to the rest of the world. Best Dry Whites? 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1988 DRC Montrachet, 1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, 1999 Kistler Vine Hill Chardonnay, 1999 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum, 2001 Zind Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Grand Cru Rangen Clos Saint-Urbain, 2003 Didier Dagueneau "Silex" Pouilly-Fume, 1996 J. Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche, 1997 Franz Hirzberger Gruner Veltliner Rotes Tor Smaragd Wachau. Notice anything? All European, less one. Best Pinot Noirs? 1990 J.F. Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1985 DRC Echezeaux, 1989 DRC Romanee-Saint-Vivant, 1976 Leroy Romanee-Saint-Vivant, 1996 Kistler Cuvee Catherine Pinot Noir, 2005 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard*, 1990 Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanee "Les Suchots", 2002 St. Innocent Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, 1994 Rochioli East Block Pinot Noir, 1999 Archery Summit Arcus Estate Pinot Noir. Now this one is decieving as I prefer Burgundy pretty much hands down to any other Pinot-producing region. The problem is that the great Burgundies are so few and far between. So, there we are. I will say that the 1996 Kistler Cuvee Catherine is without question the best new-world Pinot Noir I've ever come across. It's simply amazing. But no where near as stunning as the JF Mugnier Musigny VV was... incredible. How about Syrah-based wines? 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, 1990 Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne, 1999 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque, 1990 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne, 2002 Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Syrah, 2002 Shirvington Shiraz (I hate the wine, but it is among the best I've ever had), 2003 Mitolo GAM, 1998 Penfolds Grange, 1982 Penfolds Grange, 2001 Torbreck Run Rig, 1998 Henschke Hill Of Grace Shiraz. Now you're starting to see a little bit of a new world influence. I do, in fact, mostly prefer Grange. I am much more of an "old school" Syrah/ Shiraz style guy. The best wine in the bunch? The 1998 Grange. Champagne/Sparkling Wine? Let's drop the Sparkling Wine... it's all Champagne... 1990 Krug (magnum), 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil, 1990 Dom Perignon Rose (magnum), 1981 Dom Perignon Rose, 1985 Dom Perignon, 1985 Perrier-Jouet Rose Belle Epoque, 1985 Louis Roedered Cristal (magnum), 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill, 1996 Dom Perignon, 1976 Dr. Thannisch Bernkastler Doctor Riesling Sekt. The best? For brut, it's the 1990 Krug. For rose, it's the 1985 Perrier-Jouet Rose. Sweet Wines? 1998 Wolfberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Rangen SGN, 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 1990 Chateau d'Yquem, 1989 Chateau d'Yquem, 1953 Chateau d'Yquem, 2001 Chateau Rieussec, 2000 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Hors Choix SGN, 1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannsholle Riesling Auslese, 1964 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Kronenberg feinste Auslese Riesling, 1976 J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese. And, well, there you have it. Sauternes, Alsace, and Germany. Kracher almost made it from Austria, but that's about it. Now, the best of the rest. 1959 Inglenook Charbono, 2000 Hatton Estate Tahi (New Zealand), 1986 Penfold's 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, 1990 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998 Les Cailloux Cuvee Centenaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2001 Almaviva (Chile), 1982 Sassicaia, 1998 Gaja Costa Russi, 1999 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo, 1990 Ornellaia. Best of this lot is hands down the 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico. So, you put all of that together, and what do you get? What the Paris tasting should have been was a comparison of those who make wine to drink young and those who make wine to age. My palate favors an older wine, or a wine made in a style that is more food-friendly and less fruit and alcohol driven. A great wine should be a number of things, but it should first and foremost be balanced. There is not one unbalanced wine in the list above. They are, what I would consider, to be the best of the best. While I know there are many, many other great wines out there (and I can't wait to try them), I know that my favorites will have that same characteristic. So, the best of the list? The top 5? 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, 2001 Harlan Estate, 1990 JF Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1990 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne, and 1982 Chateau Latour. I'll let you figure out my favorite today...

Listing (with reviews)

From the last week... the 2004 Dagueneau Pur Sang Pouilly-Fume is amazing. This is more what Pouilly-Fume should be, though I do admit to owning a bottle of the voluptous 2003. Such a steely-minerally intense finish. Tons of grapefruit, grass, gooseberry and citrus fruits. But it is the fatness and minerals that give this wine it's class. Awesome stuff. Have to get one of these too. The 1996 Chateau Lagrange, St. Julien, is a very, very good Bordeaux. It is so soft with beautiful notes of black plum, figs, and cedar. It is classic St. Julien, with a long life ahead. The 1996 Harlan "Maiden" is, unfortunately, fading away. The initial nose was beautiful with the classic anise and intense black fruit concentration of any of Bill Harlans amazing wines. But, unfortunately, over the next 2 hours, it died almost completely. The 2001 Dominus is good, but no where near what the 2002 is. The 2002s are so much more concentrated than the 2001s (from what I've tasted). There appears to be a little more variability in the quality, but the best are better than the 2001s. The 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill is a great Champagne. One of the best I've ever had. It is so clean and clear with a long, long, yeast and mineral driven finish. Very light, as far as aged vintage Champagne goes.

I'm Back...

Wow... long time gone. had a great vacation with some amazing wines (that I'll review probably tomorrow)... but lets just say that the 1976 Schloss Johannisburg Riesling Auslese was to die for... as was the 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle... plus many, many others. As for tonight, the 2002 Quintessa was hot... powerful and concentrated as I remember. Awesome stuff. Also had the 2002 Dominus Estate tonight. A very powerful, cocoa-filled offering from Christian Moeuix. Has all of the hallmarks of the great Dominus of old... We'll see how time will treat this one. More tomorrow...

Interesting start...

Had a few doozies on Monday... the 1982 Chateau Latour is amazing. While not as good as the bottles I had in February, this is classic, top-notch stuff. Loads of cedar, but still showing black currants and a little cigar box and tobacco. Powerful. A little lighter in color than February as well. Also tasted the slightly-corked 1983 Chateau Margaux. A pretty nose with violets and cedar coming through the slight-corkiness. Unfortunately, it really dulled the palate on the often-great, sometimes extraordinary wine. Tonight had the 1996 Chateau Pape-Clement, Pessac-Leognan. This is a baby just coming out of hibernation. The black fruits are starting to give way to the gravely-roughness in the wine. There is such power in here and this baby is only starting to show. The 1995s are closed compared to the 1996s, but I think they will outlive them. We'll see... this was a nice start. But my wine of the night was the 1990 Dr. Burklin Wolf Riesling Auslese Trocken, Pfalz. I've had this once before and boy did it not dissapoint. The first nose is pure petrol with a hint of apple. After 15 minutes, the wine fleshed out and turned into a beautiful mass of peach, apricot, petrol with an unbelievably mineral-laden finish. It is simply awesome stuff and certainly shows the agablilty of great Riesling. This wine still has 10 years to go before it might start to fall off. Sort of along the lines of the great Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune 1990, but less powerful.

Big Week Coming Up...

LV, then back, then onto the Finals of the Best Young Sommelier in America... then vacation!!! I am so looking forward to... well, to all of it. It's going to be exhausting, but I feel very well prepared for my competition. I've been tasting well, studying so much (plus, I've got plenty of plane time to cram!), and my service is, well, let's just call it "polished". I feel like I have put as much into this as I could possibly have put into it.

On another note, the other night I tasted the 1994, 1995, and 1996 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs side by side by side... the 1994 was weak. Very weak. It just didn't have the richness or refined character that the other two do. The 1995 is velvety - clearing showing some bottle age here with the slightly nutty, toasty nose. Much richer than the crisp 1996. I hope (and think) that the 1996 will turn out better than the 1995... it should!!! We'll see though.

You've read about them, but my report this week from someone tasting in France right now is that the 2005's are... every bit as good as the other critics suggest. They are balanced, concentrated, terroir-specific wines. I can't wait!!!