Tasted a few other wines the last few days. Domaine Laroche has now gone completely screwcap. While I certainly am all for it in the Chablis village wines, I do question it some in the Premier Cru and the Grand Cru wines which really need to lay down for a while. Time will tell. The 2003 Domaine Laroche 1er Cru Vaudevey is big, fat and ripe. Very tropical with steely minerality underneath. Good, but certainly not classic, Chablis. The 2003 Domaine Laroche Grand Cru Les Clos is a powerful monster. It drinks more like California Chardonnay than Chablis - though at the end you do get a good bit of minerals. Les Clos is the powerhouse of the 7 Chablis Grand Crus, but it usually has a little elegance. This does not.
On to Dr. Burklin-Wolf from the Pfalz. A unique estate, he generally only makes dry whites. Interesting choice... the 2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf Kirchenstuck (or literally, next to the church) is awesome. Mindblowing even... One of the most intense dry German rieslings I've ever tasted. Almost Zind-Humbrecht or Trimbach's Clos Ste-Hune in intensity, with seering minerality. This needs a good 10-15 years to come around and it will be a beauty. Not even starting to show any hints of oiliness. Need to find a bottle.
Friday, April 07, 2006
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