DRC's (again)

Before the questions are asked - 1) yes, I feel very lucky to get to taste the wines that I get to taste; 2) no, I never get tired of tasting them... now on with the show!

The 1999 Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon is a nice wine, if not a bit one-dimensional. It's good, certainly, just not great. The 1996 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron is nice as well. A bit of cocoa and toast still on this one... needs more time. Quite a bit softer and more opened than the 1995s of late. The 1997 Dominus continues to be one of the best of this over-hyped vintage. Like drinking pure gravel, this St.-Emilion clone is awesome with loads of cedary cigar box, tobacco leaves and black plums. Amazing wine. My list will have to be adjusted for this one... On to the Burgundy (I'll do them in the order I tasted them). The 1995 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg (last bottle) is still a baby. Tasted several times throughout the night, the first right after opening, then again an 1 1/2 hours later, then 2 hours after that, the wine was just opening at 1 1/2 hours and had blossomed at the 3 1/2 hour mark - but was by no means done. This needs at least another 10 years to fully open and be appreciated. The wine was so complex and powerful it blew me away. Better than any of the previous bottles of this that I've tasted that were impenetrably closed, this one had a stunning nose right from the outset. Awesome. The 1988 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux was a stunner as well... fully developed nose, with a palate that still needed a few year. If you're going to drink one, open it 1/2 hour ahead and then start to go to town over the next few hours. Black peppered earth with clovey-strawberries... Rustic in style (as GE is), with pure, silky smooth tannins. Like velvet. The 1988 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-St.-Vivant "Morey Monge" was very old-school DRC... Still has lots of tannin and lots of life. The nose was sweet candied cherries and strawberries with generous clove, tobacco-hay and sweet, silky smooth fruit on the palate... the difference in terroir was so clearly evident between these two bottles. One, sweet-fruit and earth, the other rustic power... I prefered the Grands Echezeaux last evening... the top 56 or whatever it is now will change...

And...

The 1996 Gosset Celebris (Champagne) was stunning... a beautiful example of the hidden power of this beautiful vintage. The acidity was so piercing, the fruit almost sweet, that this Champagne completely exceeded any expectations I had. This needs time to integrate all of the minerals and what appears to be a very high percentage of Chardonnay. The Krug Rose MV was a stunner... clearly a very old (5-7 years) bottle, the wine was weightless, yet so powerful and fruit-driven in the glass. The secondary aromas of toast and anise were really screaming, but the wine is a fruit-driven, pure clean wine. Awesome to taste both of these in the same night. The 1999 Dr. Burklin Wolf Forster Kirchenstuck Auslese Trocken en Magnum was a baby. Not really integrated at all, was a completely different animal to the much more evolved Magnum I had about 2 weeks ago (different einzellagen as well). All minerals and petrol with hints of peach, it was completely wound up and didn't unravel at all over the 4 hour period it was opened. The 2003 Harlan Estate was completely closed and didn't yield any of the beauty the last bottle I had did... Oh well. Even more dissapointing was the two bottles of 1995 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon I poured down the drain... The 2002 Masseto en Magnum was good, not great. I still think they should not have made this wine in this weak, green, un-ripe vintage. The wine was all green pepper and herbs... that what happens when Merlot doesn't ripen!!! The 1995 Chateau Talbot had green note to it as well, but was a green tannin note rather than a green fruit or vegetal note. If I had a ton of 1995s in my cellar, I'd be very nervous right now... Some are beautiful, but others show absolutely no sign of opening any time soon (if at all). Give most of them at least another 5 - 10 years. The wine of the night, and one that is making me re-assess my ranking of it, was the 1990 Chateau d'Yquem. Powerful - almost lunging out of the glass - this wine is one of the most concentrated d'Yquem's I've had. Still a youthful, minerally baby, the wine screams botrytis. I still don't think it's the best d'Yquem out there, but it's very, very good.

The Top 10

Picking the Top 10 this year was easy... as was putting them in order, for the most part. As the year is not over yet, I reserve the right to change a few things around... but I doubt it. I went back and forth with #1 & #2, switching them a few times until I was completely comfortable with my final result (while as I'm typing this, I'm not 100% comfortable..) So, here we go.


10
2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

Despite being one of the most concentrated wines I've ever tasted, this wine is balanced in every way. While it doesn't have the purity of texture the 2001 Harlan Estate has, for a young wine, this is stellar stuff. This was top 3 last year, but only #10 this year...

9
1982 Chateau Latour, Premier Grand Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux France

A monumental wine - simply perfect - yet, very young. If there was a bottle on this list to put away for another 100 years, this is the one. The bottles I had this year didn't have weightlessness of the bottles last year, so it's not as high up… another top 3 last year.

8
1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

Until I tried this, I thought the 1994 Bryant Family was the best mature California Cab I've ever had. The Colgin was more youthful, layered and complex than any other older Cali Cab I'd ever had (notice the qualifiers… the 2001 Harlan still takes the cake). Silky texture, amazing length. Simply pure.

7
1990 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil sur Oger, Côte des Blancs, Champagne, France

The second time I've had this - the last about a year and a half ago - the wine has become racy yet elegant with a pure Chardonnay nose - perfect Champagne. As a Champagne freak, this drove me crazy… tasted next to the 1979 Krug Collection en Magnum and there was no comparison, in my book. Had at Lunch in March.

6
1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux, Flagey-Echezeaux, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France

This is pure bottled earth. More mature than Romanee-Conti (as expected), this wine has layers and layers of ripe fruit with clove, black olive, cedar, tobacco leaves, violets, roses, hibiscus, etc. An almost perfect Burgundy.

5
1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti, Vosne-Romanee, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France

If this wine were mature, it could go higher… unreal nose… weightless, silky, perfect palate. I will always be able to taste this wine. Needs lots more time.

4
1955 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Premier Grand Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France

The single greatest example of Lafite I've ever had the joy of tasting. Tremendous fruit with all of those beautiful Lafite cedary/cigar box/dusty, dried tobacco leaf aromas. The finish went on forever….

3
2004 Sea Smoke "Southing" Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California

A California Pinot higher than 1990 Romanee-Conti??? You bet… I broke this out on my trip to California, where it was obviously the wine of the trip for me. The nose is something like a perfectly mature La Tache (silky-smooth ripe fruit) combined with the power of Richebourg. I can and always will be able to smell and taste this wine. It was simply perfect and the greatest Pinot Noir outside of Burgundy I've ever tasted. Came from my cellar.

2
1961 Chateau Latour, Premier Grand Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France

One of the great bottles of wine I've ever drunk in my life… Better than any other 1961 Latour I've ever had. I am simply without words describing this bottle. It took the other 1961's I've had to a completely other level. Drank at lunch in March.

1
1990 E. Guigal "La Turque" Côte-Rôtie, Northern Rhone Valley, France

The wine of the March Lunch and one of the three best bottles I've ever drunk in my life… read my notes from March. 93% Syrah, 7% Viognier. Combines the best of Burgundy with Bordeaux and you end up with this monster.

This Week

Not a lot great this week... The 2005 Domaine de la Faugourde Coteaux du Layon (brought from France, not sure if this producer is imported or not) was beautiful. A lovely balance between the RS and acidity. Pure Chenin and very tasty. The 2002 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmon Hattenheimer Wisselbruher Riesling Spatlese en Magnum was tasty - not outstanding, but very drinkable and a nice treat! The 2004 Tsiakkas Cabernet Sauvignon, Pitsilia Mountains, Cyprus was very, very nice. I was quite suprised at the quality here. Somewhat fruit forward, the wine had a lovely finish and nice length... bravo! The Lanson NV Brut was tasty - lots of biscuit notes - very Chardonnay as it was a week or so ago. The 2005 Kistler Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir was a fireball... very hot on the palate (the alcohol was not at all integrated and came off unbalanced), the fruit-forward and clove-spiced nose was beautiful, however. To me, for the next 5 years, I would just smell this wine - not drink it. After that... go to town. The 1990 Chateau Rieussec was stunning... The depth and youthful quality of this wine amazes me - even more so that when I tried it, it had been opened (unvacuumed) for more than 3 weeks (!!!!). Not as rich as the 1990 d'Yquem, it was clearly more mature and lacked a bit of umph that would have pushed it over the top. A fabulous wine!

11-25

Yup... 11-25.

25-1999 Chateau Tirecul "Cuvee Madame" Monbazilliac - I've had this before, but for some reason this wine completely bowled me over this year. The depth of botrytis and length on the finish, coupled with extreme power with grace is something I've only ever found in very old Chateau d'Yquem. Actively searching for this wine for my own cellar.
24-1989 Gaja Barbaresco - what can be said? So much Sotto Bosco - enjoyed at a tasting then again at lunch. Maybe not the 1990 or 1988, but Gaja's signature wine is always enjoyable. This was a treat.
23-1966 Leroy Meursault "Pezerolles" Premier Cru - In my mind, the greatest winery anywhere... The fact that they do a library release every now and then blows me away... much like this wine. Amazing Chardonnay from one of the supreme Burgundy vintages of the 20th Century... like liquid hazelnuts with plenty of life.
22-1975 Bertani Amarone - pure smokey leather. What a wine... almost my favorite Italian of the year.
21-1988 DRC Richebourg - it doesn't get much better than 19 year old Richebourg...
20-1989 DRC Grands Echezeaux - when GE is done correctly, it can be one of the most enticing wines made...
19-1994 Bryant Family - this wine was initially going to go into the top 10, but after tasting a few other 1994s, it got knocked down a notch.
18-2003 Penfold's Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon- Anyone like to drink liquid tar? This is it... one of the rarest wines in Australia and it surpassed all of the hype and gets my nod for Austalian Wine of the Year.
17-1985 Braida Bricco dell'Uccellone Barbera d'Asti- what a suprise this was... after drinking a 1994 Ca'del Bosco Cuvee Annamaria Clementi, the good Doctor produced this stunner. Soooo much earth, one of the great experiences of my trip this summer.
16-1986 Chateau Cheval-Blanc - this was one that I forgot (how, I don't know... sorry...) Pure Cheval, I've now had this 4 times in the last 2 years and it keeps getting better and better. Not as good as the 2000, 1998, 1990 or 1982 in my mind, but still great and one of the best Bordeaux produced in this vintage.
15-1996 Gaja Sperss - When I opened up the first bottle of this, I thought I had died and gone to heaven. This has everything great Barolo should have - Sotto Bosco, dried leaves, black fruit, red fruit, roses... The finish on this wine goes on forever... full of texture but almost weightless. Best Italian of the Year for me.
14-1998 Comte Georges de Vogue "Le Musigny" Vieilles Vignes - what can I say about my favorite Burgundy vineyard? If only this were another 5 - 10 years older. Like drinking pure silk.
13-2000 Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling - if anyone should ever dispute the greatest dry white Riesling (and possibly the greatest white wine anywhere), one only need to try this and that will be the end of that.
12-1982 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac - At it's prime, this is a #1-#3 wine, but this bottle had faded just a touch and falls out of the top 10... but still an amazing bottle. Glad I had the opportunity to taste it several times.
11-1995 Domaine Leroy Richebourg - Not sure how this missed the top 10, but it does (when you see the top 10, you'll see why...) Maybe, again, another 5-10 years and this could be a favorite. Awesome Richebourg.

Let's see... that leaves 3 Bordeaux, 2 Burgundy, 1 Champagne, 3 California, and 1 Rhone as the makeup of the top 10... it's going to take a lot for the top 10 to change...

Changes

I told you it was going to happen.. here's the new new 25-40 and 40-56... There was one I forgot that needed to go pretty high up, plus the addition of the 1990 Lafite to 40-56 and the 1995 Haut-Brion in the #38 spot.

40-56 (in no particular order)2004 Didier Dagueneau Silex, Pouilly-Fume*1998 Penfold's Grange (I expect as this integrates and matures this will be one of the great wines in the Grange lineup, but it's still too tightly wound to merit a higher placement this year).*2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet (see above... too young at the moment)1999 Cristal en Jerobaum (again, too young)1994 Ca'del Bosco Cuvee Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta - had over an amazing lunch.2004 Tignanello (again, too young... I need one of these)1979 Krug Collection en Magnum2003 Phelps Backus (again, too young)1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux (I struggled with this one and before I'm done this may break into the top 30)1989 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron1990 Penfold's Grange1970 Chateau Latour1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne (special note on this one... as great as it is, I had a tremendous number of wines this year that blew me away. I own a bottle of this) *1990 Dom Perignon Rose en Magnum (really great, but not this year)1999 Cristal Rose (again, really great... but not this year) 1990 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild (I’ve had much better bottles of this… could be a top 25-wine)

26-40
26 - 1995 Pahlmeyer Red en Magnum - had in California. Beautiful and round... awesome stuff.
27 - 1999 Gaja Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino - one of the great Brunello's and the best I had in 2007.
28 - 1990 Chateau d'Yquem - such a monstrous baby. Tons of minerals and botrytis. Yes, the quality is there, but the excitement wasn't. It's easy to make d'Yquem one of the favorites. This position may change, though. Had at lunch in March.
29 - 2004 Gaja Barbaresco - The wine is far too young to merit anything higher, but it is a hell of a wine. Awesome power with elegance. Time will be kind to this one... Tasted at the winery. *30 - 2004 Sassicaia - again, far too young. The best Sassicaia I've had since the great 1990. Tasted at the winery.
31 - 2001 Gaja Sperss - See 28, but even more closed. Tasted at the winery.*
32 - 1996 Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs, Champagne - Getting the picture? This is where the great young wines go... simply stunning Champagne full of minerals. Just hints of brioche. Needs many, many years.
33 - 1998 Alvario Palacios L'Ermita Priorato - what a great wine - earth and power. Tasted several times over the year, with the best bottle being just a few months ago.
34 - 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon - Tasted several times. Would have been higher if the last bottle or so hadn't been a slight disappointment.
35 - 1971 Weingut Norbert Eser Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese, Rheingau, Germany - had in the car with a great friend only a few weeks ago (PS, I wasn't driving)
36 - 1900 Irmes & Borges Colheita Port - bottled in 1947. This wine morphed faster than any other wine I've ever tasted... It drink beautifully right out of the bottle, then dies, then comes back. It's like a caterpillar into butterfly.
37 - 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero - The bottles have closed down slightly, so it's not drinking as well as it was last year. Try again in 5 years.
38 – 1995 Chateau Haut-Brion – really beautiful wine here… I’d love to try it again in another 10 years when it unleashes its “fury”.
39 - 1995 Poggio all'Oro Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - tasted at the winery during lunch. Wowzers. Full of Sotto Bosco and dried leaves... so good I had to get a bottle for myself.*
40 - 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - had this at the beginning of the year. Unfortunately, it was our last bottle. What a stunner this one is... full of life, drink in 30 years.

This is why

I shouldn't do my list until the very end of the year... the night before last was a half bottle of 1990 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild. While this wasn't the best bottle of this I've had, the nose was pure Lafite and could not ever be mistaken for another wine. It goes in the 38-54 category... Also the other night was the 2002 Dolce (Far Niente)... this wine has a beautiful nose, but the palate is unbalanced and flabby with no lasting finish. Very dissapointing. Last night was the 1995 Chateau Haut-Brion... now, this is still a baby, but wow. The nose is just starting to unwind and the finish is looooooong and powerful. Just starting to show the gravely-bacon fat that I associate with Haut Brion. Goes somewhere in the now top-39... The 2004 Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon is beautiful Chilean Cab... green pepper, but so beautifully balanced and not overextracted or overdone in any way. Nice... a not-so pleasant suprise was the 1995 Chateau Cos d'Estournel... Tasted before the Haut Brion, this wine seemed lifeless and lacking fruit. It was rustic, sure, but where the Haut Brion was a ball of fury about the be unleashed, the Cos felt like it was fading rather than gaining...

And So It Begins...

First, the 2002 Rosemount Estate "Tradition" (Bordeaux-style blend) is quite nice... had a bit of age to it now, so it's really soft (but still ripe on the nose) with tons of minty eucalyptus.

So, tonight I'll begin the countdown... of course it first involves narrowing down my 116 (!) favorite wines to a more manageable 53 (!!... how that happened I have no idea... I'm now spending time culling it to the best 38 - why 38? Why not!). So, now it's 30 minutes later and I don't want to remove any of the wines... so... I'm going to do the top 53. I'll put 38-53 in a group in no particular order, but I will then begin listing the top 30 (well, actually that's not true either... I could only narrow it to 38). Today, we'll see 38-53 and 25-37. * means it was either from my cellar or I own some.

To me, these are the greatest wines I had the pleasure of tasting or drinking this year. It is not meant to be a representation of what's available, or what's new. It's simply me listing my favorite wines I've had in the last 12 months. A young wine may be spectacular and may be destined for greatness, but if it wasn't drinking that well when I tried it, that's all that matters... it's not about what the wines will be, rather what they are now. Enjoy.

38-53 (in no particular order)

2004 Didier Dagueneau Silex, Pouilly-Fume*
1998 Penfold's Grange (I expect as this integrates and matures this will be one of the great wines in the Grange lineup, but it's still too tightly wound to merit a higher placement this year).*
2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet (see above... too young at the moment)
1999 Cristal en Jerobaum (again, too young)
1994 Ca'del Bosco Cuvee Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta - had over an amazing lunch.
2004 Tignanello (again, too young... I need one of these)
1979 Krug Collection en Magnum
2003 Phelps Backus (again, too young)
1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux (I struggled with this one and before I'm done this may break into the top 30)
1989 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron
1990 Penfold's Grange
1970 Chateau Latour
1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne (special note on this one... as great as it is, I had a tremendous number of wines this year that blew me away. I own a bottle of this) *
1990 Dom Perignon Rose en Magnum (really great, but not this year)
1999 Cristal Rose (again, really great... but not this year)

25-38

25 - 1995 Pahlmeyer Red en Magnum - had in California. Beautiful and round... awesome stuff.
26 - 1999 Gaja Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino - one of the great Brunello's and the best I had in 2007.
27 - 1990 Chateau d'Yquem - such a monstrous baby. Tons of minerals and botrytis. Yes, the quality is there, but the excitement wasn't. It's easy to make d'Yquem one of the favorites. This position may change, though. Had at lunch in March.
28 - 2004 Gaja Barbaresco - The wine is far too young to merit anything higher, but it is a hell of a wine. Awesome power with elegance. Time will be kind to this one... Tasted at the winery. *
29 - 2004 Sassicaia - again, far too young. The best Sassicaia I've had since the great 1990. Tasted at the winery.
30 - 2001 Gaja Sperss - See 28, but even more closed. Tasted at the winery.*
31 - 1996 Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs, Champagne - Getting the picture? This is where the great young wines go... simply stunning Champagne full of minerals. Just hints of brioche. Needs many, many years.
32 - 1998 Alvario Palacios L'Ermita Priorato - what a great wine - earth and power. Tasted several times over the year, with the best bottle being just a few months ago.
33 - 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon - Tasted several times. Would have been higher if the last bottle or so hadn't been a slight disappointment.
34 - 1971 Weingut Norbert Eser Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese, Rheingau, Germany - had in the car with a great friend only a few weeks ago (PS, I wasn't driving)
35 - 1900 Irmes & Borges Colheita Port - bottled in 1947. This wine morphed faster than any other wine I've ever tasted... It drink beautifully right out of the bottle, then dies, then comes back. It's like a caterpillar into butterfly.
36 - 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero - The bottles have closed down slightly, so it's not drinking as well as it was last year. Try again in 5 years.
37 - 1995 Poggio all'Oro Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - tasted at the winery during lunch. Wowzers. Full of Sotto Bosco and dried leaves... so good I had to get a bottle for myself.*
38 - 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - had this at the beginning of the year. Unfortunately, it was our last bottle. What a stunner this one is... full of life, drink in 30 years.

Just One

1993 Opus One was drinking suprisingly well... still full of live, but very cedary with tobacco and sweet black currant... very nice.

Oooooooooooooo

What a yummy night... Started off with an older bottle of Lanson Black Label Champagne, almost pure chardonnay with tons of yeasty, biscuit notes. Great stuff... had two bottles of Bollinger that were both oxidized, so we moved on to the 2005 Napa Wine Company Pinot Blanc, which I shall not mention again... too buttery and overdone for my tastes. So, we opened a 2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf "Kirchenstuck" Riesling Trocken which was extremely young... tons of minerals with a beautiful petrol note developing. This will be better in the years to come. Almost completely dry. A great wine. The 1999 Dr. Burkling Wolf Diedesheimer Lagenmorgan Riesling Trocken (not sure of the Pradikat, though it had to be Spatlese or Auslese), Court of Master Sommelier's Limited Edition, Magnum 123/200. The wine was massive... completely mind-blowing. Tons of petrol, but not over the top. In complete balance with loads of tropical, floral fruit. Hmmm. The 1996 Penley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia, Magnum #60/180 was awesome... only 13% alcohol, this was pure mint and eucalyptus with dusty earthiness. Australian, definitely, but not the over-extracted, over-done stuff... true Coonawarra Cab... The 1978 Hospices de Beaune "Beaune", Magnum (tasted blind initially) was beautiful... almost orange on the rim with a pretty cherry red in the center. Dried leaves, compost, wild strawberries... shows what happens in a great vintage, even with village wine, in Burgundy. Really beautiful, and glad I saved some for the Epoisses. The 1982 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, was simply stunning... one of the great '82s, this wine has reached maturity in 750ml bottle and will only decline from here. A great bottle (fill well into the neck), but I've had better bottles before. Anise, tons of cedar/cigar box, graphite, black cherry, and a long, long elegant finish. Blew me away last night. The 1995 Chateau d'Yquem was all botrytis and candied apricots. Went great with the Roaring 40's from Tasmania... A nice treat! We should all be drinking d'Yquem much more often than we get to... To close the evening, two amazing Sherry's, neither imported into the US (as far as we can tell as we've never seen either offered anywhere). both Emilio Lustau... the first was simply labeled as "East India Trading Company". Had a bit of sweetness but almost Amontillado in style... dark in color, really pretty "bag of walnuts". The last, the exceptionally rare and highly sought after Palo Cortado... mindblowing wine - makes me wonder why we don't embrace Sherry... I need some of these for my cellar.

A great night, a great party...

Ho Ho Ho...

Been a good, if not spectacular, week... but we have our annual get together this evening where some great wine should go down...

The 2004 Tignanello could very well be the finest version I've ever tasted... simply mind-blowing concentration for a mostly-Sangiovese wine. Loads of anise and black berries, with hints of red fruit and tons of classic Italian dusty earthiness... very Italian, very Tig, and this baby needs a while - like 5 - 10 years minimum. The 2003 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero was all coffee beans and mocha tonight with hints of dark chocolate, and black berry fruit... not my style. I'm wondering what happened to this wine over the last few months. Less concentrated than the 04, still very nice... left me scratching my head. The 1995 Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon (a few km outside of Beruit) is a fabulous wine. Sweet spicy cherries with a beautiful earth-funk of cedar, tobacco (wet and dried), dried straw and a long, long finish. Those of you not familiar with this wine should find a bottle... one of the longest lived dry red wines there is... The 2004 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes is a tightly wound ball of spice. I'm not sure what the exact blend is, but it's got to have tons of Grenache in it... the sweet wild strawberry and raspeberry fruit gives that away... tons of spice. Very, very tight. This needs at least another 5-10 years to evolve completely.

Unbroken Chain...

1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux is mind-blowing... without question the best GE I've ever had. The nose is clove, cinnamon, tobacco leaves, red earth and wild red fruit... amazing finish... I'm still stunned by this wine. One of the best wines of 2007 for me... The 1998 Leoville-Barton was light and uneventful. The 1997 Chateau d'Yquem is a baby... the 97 Suduiraut is drinking much better at present.

Nice Treats

Lovely wines last night... the 1999 Leroy Meursault "Les Charmes" has finally started to open just a bit. It's still showing more Puligny charachter than Meursault initially, but the back end of the palate is pure hazelnuts and honeysuckle with intense minerality. I'm going to bet this one will come around in another 5-10 years. The 2001 Stags Leap Wine Cellar Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon is beautiful... but drinking perfectly right now. Very Bordeaux-esque (as this wine always wants to be), showing a good bit of dusty cedar and tobacco with anise and black fruit. Nice, nice wine. The 1989 Remoissenet Gevry-Chambertin 1er Cru "Cazetieres" is really beautiful. Tasted right after opening, the wine needed a good 30-45 seconds of vigorous swirling to reveal itself. This bottle had lost a bit of fruit, but was still stunning with its tertiary aromas. Very, very long. Wouldn't hold this one all that much longer (maybe 5 years max), but a real joy to taste. The 1995 Chateau Angelus has never been my favorite. I still get tons of green olive and what appears to be some bitter wood tannins. Hopefully this will continue to integrate and the wine will blossom. Right now it's just too bitter and has too much anise. Maybe in another 5 years. The 2000 E.Guigal Cote-Rotie "La Landonne" was as closed and as tight as I've ever seen the La La's get... Smokey bacon fat and anise with loads of raw meat. I worked this one in my mouth for a good 30 seconds before it even started to give. I wouldn't touch it for another 5 years.

Busy, Busy, Busy...

I've been really busy lately and will be coming up again, so here we go...

1971 Weingut Norbert Eser Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese, Rheingau, Germany was stunning... light gold in color with very high viscosity. Appearing almost completely dry on the palate, this wine has incredible length and purity. A very fat, rich wine that was drinking at its peak. Awesome stuff right here... just a hint of botrytis and honeysuckle-coated almonds. Really amazing... Also the 2002 Numanthia Termes, Taittinger Brut Rose, 2006 Dr. Thannisch Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett, and 2006 Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Hochrain Federspiel. The Dr. Thannisch and Rudi Pichler were at opposite ends of the spectrum... Rudi- bone dry and incredible pepper... Dr. Thannisch - piercing acid and beautiful.

Fun Night

Had a great time last night... the 2005 Gunderloch "Jean-Baptiste" Riesling Kabinett is so light and nice. It shows some pretty petrol with just a touch of residual sugar. Very nice... The 2005 Pahlmeyer Pinot Noir is a monster... could be one of the biggest Pinot's out there (reminded me a lot of a young Kistler Pinot Noir). Tons of alcohol (almost out of balance - notice I said "almost"), but beautiful ripe fruit with cranberry, rhubarb and red plum. Wild strawberry and raspberry scream out of the glass. Give it time, me thinks. Same can be said of the 1989 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron. Wow... when we first opened it, the nose was massive - tons of cedar and pencil lead - lots of deep, dark earthy fruit (no sweet cherries here). After an hour it finally started to open up and that's when I noticed the mid-palate propelled this wine to new heights... really stunning stuff.

Happy Thanksgiving (belated, anyway...)

Hope everyone had a great day... For me, it was... 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Grancy - wow is this wine drinking well right now. The nose is rediculous. When young, these wines offer little charm... but as they age, watch out! The nose is so expressive and terroir-driven... nice. The 1988 Louis Latour Corton-Grancy was even more evolved and is completely mature... lovely clove and powerful earth notes. Nice length. The 1999 Arrowood "Saralee's Vineyard" Syrah was loosing fruit, but is so much more Cornas than California Syrah... all bacon fat and black olive. The 2002 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru "Duvault-Blanchot" is still a baby and was actually quite closed and not giving much. This needs quite a few more years before I'd touch it.

Another Good One

First, the 1996 Chatau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is awesome... so silky and smooth... no longer a baby - more a teenager - it still has a long life ahead of it, but I just don't know how much better it's going to get. There is a hint of green to this wine, but it is so silky and seductive... The 1999 Gaja Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino is simply outstanding... this one goes on the "best of" list immediately. The wine has beautiful sweet - but dried - fruit. It is classic Brunello made in a modern style (does that even make sense?). The finish is mindblowing and screams "drink me!". I just love the style, purity, and intensity of Anjelo Gaja's wines... The 2003 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon is a monster - extremely extracted - with tons of anise and ripe black cherries. This is simply not my style of wine, though some publications have given it 100 points, I fail to see how or why - other than the extreme extraction. The 1995 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache is the complete opposite - this is a lady - so silky with a much less developed nose than the 1990 Romanee-Conti from the other day - but a much more evolved and open palate. The only way to describe it is silk and roses... sadly, it was our last bottle and it had yet to blossomed...

Almost...

It's almost time for my "Wines of the Year"... While there's still a lot of time between now and the end of the year, and I'm sure a lot of great wine in that time as well, it's nonetheless time to start narrowing down my favorite bottles I've tried in the last year.

First, let's list the nominees...

Champagne & Sparkling Wines - 1990 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blanc, 1979 Krug Collection en Magnum, 1990 Bruno Paillard "Nec Plus Ultra", 1996 Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blanc, 1990 Dom Perignon Rose en Magnum, 1995 Charles Heidsieck "Blanc de Millenieres", 1999 Cristal en Jerobaum, 1999 Cristal Rose, 1994 Ca'del Bosco Cuvee Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta... who could argue with a list like this?

Burgundy - 1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti, 1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux, 2005 Clos de Tart, 1995 Domaine Leroy Richebourg, 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-St.-Vivant "Morey Monge", 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux, 1989 Remoissenet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Cazetieres, 2005 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet, 1966 Leroy Meursault 1er Cru "Pezerolles", 1998 Comte George de Vogue Le Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1988 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Richebourg, 2004 Joseph Drouhin Musigny, 1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee St.-Vivant "Morey Monge", 1989 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux (I think that covers all of the DRC Red Grand Crus, right?)... lots of yum in this bunch... I bet more than 2-3 will make the top 10 this year...

Bordeaux - 1982 Chateau Latour, 1995 Chateau Latour, 1955 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, 1993 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc, 1986 Chateau Cheval-Blanc, 1985 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1986 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1961 Chateau Latour, 1983 Chateau Margaux, 1952 Chateau Margaux, 1995 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 1990 Chateau Certan de May, 1990 Chateau Gruaud Larose, 1970 Chateau Latour, 1989 Chateau Palmer, 2000 Chateau Pichon Lalande... again, hard to imagine?

Other French & Sweet Wines (not just French) - 2000 Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling, 2004 Didier Dagueneau Silex, 1990 Chateau d'Yquem, 1999 Tirecul "Cuvee Madame" Monbazilliac, 1990 Guigal "La Turque" Cote-Rotie, 1975 Quinta da Noval "Nacional", 2000 Sparr Schoenenberg Grand Cru Riesling, 2001 Chateau Guiraud, 1900 Irmes & Borges Colheita Port, 2000 Madiran "Penillet"(not sure of the producer!!!), 2001 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle", 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle", ... not a great sweet wine year, for the most part.

German - 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf Kirchenstuck, 1990 Dr. Burklin Wolf Auslese Trocken "BB"... not a great Riesling year either, unfortunately...

Spanish - 1998 Alvario Palacios "L'Ermita" Priorato, 2002 Roda I Rioja, 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico... wow, didn't realize how little Spanish I've had this year, either...

Italian - now, this is an area I racked up the wines in... 1996 Gaja Sperss, 2001 Gaja Sperss, 1989 Gaja Barbaresco, 1989 Gaja Darmagi, 2001 Gaja Dagromis Barolo, 2004 Sassicaia, 2003 Gaja Ca'Marcanda Estate Ca'Marcanda, 1981 Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva, 2001 Pio Cesare "Il Bricco" Barbaresco, 1985 Braida Bricco dell'Uccellone Barbera d'Asti, 1997 Gaja Costa Russi, 2000 Gaja Conteisa, 1999 Guado al Tasso, 2001 Gaja Conteisa, 2004 Gaja Barbaresco, 2006 Martinetti "Martin", 2006 Sassicaia, 1995 Banfi Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 2001 Banfi Poggio Alle Mura "Brunello di Montalcino" Riserva, 1993 Banfi Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 1975 Bertani Amarone, 2003 Masseto (you may be asking how I can put this on here after the horrible review I gave it... well, it's on here for a reason - to be revealed later...)... again, a wonderful list...

Austria - 2004 Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, 1999 Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor Gruner Veltliner Smaragd (short list...)

Australia & New Zealand - 1990 Penfolds Grange, 1998 Penfolds Grange, 1994 Penfolds Grange, 2004 Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon (I really should just stop here, because short of something like a fully Grange, 707, or Hill of Grace this is the best wine I've had from Australia this year.), 2004 Craggy Range "Le Sol" Syrah

United States - 1994 Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995 Pahlmeyer Red en Magnum, 1991 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon en Magnum, 1992 Chalone Pinot Blanc, 2004 Sea Smoke "Southing" Pinot Noir, 2005 Sea Smoke "Southing" Pinot Noir, 2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay, 2003 Harlan Estate, 2003 Lewis Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001 Archery Summit Arcus Pinot Noir, 1996 Dalla Valle "Premiere Napa Valley" Barrel #41, 1997 Dominus, 1999 Gaja Barbaresco, 2005 Blackbird, 1994 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon en Magnum, 2005 Pride Cabernet Franc, 2003 Phelps Backus, ZD Abacus VII, - lovely stuff here... in all honestly again, it's going to be very hard to beat either the 1994 Colgin, 2002 Shafer Hillside, or 2004 Sea Smoke Southing...

Rest of the World - 1997 Almaviva, 2003 Almaviva, 2004 Almaviva (can you tell I love this wine!?!?)

Well... I'm sure I missed a few... I'd love to hear your thoughts... had any of these wines this year? I'd love to hear your impressions...

Two Spectacular Wines... two opposite worlds... (& WS WOTY 2007)

It's so rare that I come home and write anymore... only when the wine calls for it, and boy, did it call for it tonight. When I got into work today, I was greeted with a taste of an extraodinary Cabernet Sauvignon - 2004 Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley, South Australia.... this is a wine I've only ever read about - the rarity (only bottled separately 7 times in 1948, 1953 (as Grange Cabernet), 1961 & 1963 (experiments for the fabulous Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon - the '63 as Bin 64 Kalimna Cabernet), 1964 (Bin 707 - though it was entirely Block 42 fruit), 1996 and now again in 2004(part of the production was bottled in screwcap), the age of the vines (the oldest still-producing Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the planet - back to the 1880s), and of course the legend of the intensity and purity of fruit (the vineyard was considered essential in the early experiments Max Schubert did in producing Grange). The wine had been opened a good 20 hours before I tried it, and I am very glad it was... the nose is pure black fruit with layers and layers of black ash and earth. On the palate, there was a hint of sweetness of fruit - black raspberry - and tons of glycerol, but the wine is in perfect balance. An amazing rich, chocolate & tar mouth... great texture as it truly coats the entire palate. Amazing, amazing wine. Clearly in the top 10 of the year, probably in the top 5 but unfortunately, it doesn't even make wine of the night.

The wine of the night, and possibly the year, and up there with the best I've ever tried, was the other legend... the 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy, France, was mindblowing... the nose was simply without peer... it was like I could see the soil in 3D!!! The rocks, the individual clumps of clay, the slope of where those exact grapes for that exact bottle came from.... Sweet cherry and strawberry fruit, but otherworldy exotic spicebox, classic DRC clove, dried mushrooms, turned earth, layer after layer... I could have smelled the wine forever - again, in perfect balance. On the palate the wine was... could it be... way, way, way too young... The layers and depth of fruit had certainly transfered to the palate, but they had not completely integrated and there was a good bit of grippy tannin (though all in utterly perfect balance). The finish was long and powerful, but lacking the pure elegance and silky textural quality I associate with mature Romanee-Conti (though, not the same as La Tache)... this one goes to the top for what it is now and for what it will be in the future. If I were lucky enough to have this bottle in my cellar, I would wait a good 10-15 years before I opened it.

Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year was announced today... the 2005 Clos de Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape... I hate to say I could see it coming, but this wine has been touted between WS and RP for the last few years. Great wine, sure... but another CdP???? Yes, they're making great wines at great prices other regions (Burgundy, Bordeaux) were selling their top wines for 20 years ago... and they're making a lot of it, but still...

More Goodies...

The 2001 Dr. Burklin Wolf Kirchenstuck is a stunner... so mineraly and full of petrol and ripe, sweet fruit... perfect balance. A great Pfalz riesling from one of the great German producers... The 1997 Dominus (two bottles) is one of the best of the 1997s I've had, and certainly the best I've had in a while. Though maybe not the 1997 Bryant or Screaming Eagle, the wine is a California wine trying to be St.-Emilion. So pure and earthy with loads of cedar, cigar box and tar... beautiful.

Bene!

Really nice stuff this week so far... had a fabulous dinner with Cristina Mariani-May of Castello Banfi... 2001 Brunello di Montalcino, 1998 Brunello di Montalcino "Poggio alle Mure", 1997 Brunello di Montalcino "Poggio alle Mure", 1997 Summus, 1995 Excelsius, 1993 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva "Poggio all'Oro"... beautiful stuff. Also, the 1995 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvingon (knockout wine here...), and 1997 Bastiaolo Barolo...

Fun Few Days...

Went back to Charlotte, NC for the first time in 2 1/2 years... had loads of fun and it was great to catch up with good friends... of course, there was wine involved. Lots of it....
1992 Chalone Pinot Blanc... what can you say about this wine??? It just ages so well (!)... I was fortunate enough to taste a 1982 Chalone Pinot Blanc (could have been 83, I'll have to check my notes) a few years ago and the wine was still alive. This wine was still a baby. Showing a slight oxidative character (typical for this wine), the wine was honeysuckle, hazelnuts and minerals. Beautifully rich and creamy. The 2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay (just released) was beautiful. Not overly oaked, but a beautiful balance of ripe fruit and great acidity. A true "breakfast wine". The 2003 Aubert "Ritchie Vineyard" Chardonnay had bunches more oak, and was creamy and rich (we actually drank this at the end of the evening and it was perfect after all of the red wines - see below). I didn't like it as much as the Kongsgaard, but it's still tasty!
I won't go into details, but rather just list the wines... the theme was Robert Foley Wines (Hourglass, Switchback Ridge, Poison, Pride Mountain, Robert Foley Vineyards)...

1998 Pride Cabernet Franc, 1998 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 Switchback Ridge Merlot, 2003 Pride Merlot (x3), 2002 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah, 2004 Robert Foley Claret, 2003 Poison, 2001 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Pride Cabernet Franc (x3), 2003 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah, 2005 Robert Foley Claret, 2003 Robert Foley Claret, 2004 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 Switchback Ridge Merlot, 2000 Pride Reserve Claret, 2002 Pride Cabernet Franc, 2001 Pride Reserve Claret, 2004 Robert Foley Petite Sirah

Some were repeated and I just didn't write them down, but that's a whole lot of Robert Foley. Blind. Speed wise... was 27 Robert Foley Wines total.

Also while I was there had Duval Leroy Brut - really, really great, dry true-brut Champagne. The 2005 Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt Piesporter Goldtropchen Riesling Kabinett was beautiful... already showing petrol notes, this wine was ripe and floral with tons of minerals. The 2004 Joseph Drouhin Cote de Beaune Rouge(declassified Clos de Mouches 1er Cru) was fabulous. Took a while to open, but the fruit is there. The structure is there. A great bargain! The 2004 Verrazzano Chianti Classico was stinky, but once the funk blew off - terrific, classic wine from this superb vintage. The 2003 Chateau d'Arche Sauternes was so good... a bit riper than normal (that's 2003!) and lower acid, but a great finish!

Um Um Good...

A nice evening last night... the 1997 Laurent-Perrier Brut is very clean and very crisp with lovely lemon and unripe white peach... nice. The Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Rare is rich, yeasty, toasty and a bit fruity - especially on the palate. Ripe apricots and orange rind with hazelnut... very pretty and very easy to drink... The 2005 Domaine Chavy Puligny-Montrachet "les Folatieres" is a tightly wound ball of minerals ready to just explode (in about 10 years!). The steely, chalky pebbles scream out of the piercing acidity of this one... the 05s really are as good the hype. The 2004 Craggy Range Syrah "le Sol" was incredible last night (after tasting it last week I had to buy some...) Smoke, tons of crushed pebbles (who says minerality only comes in Old World wines???), amazing layers of anise, cocoa, black peppercorns, and black cherries. This is intense stuff and I encourage everyone to find a bottle (though not inexpensive - $50-65 US retail). The 2003 Joseph Phelps Backus Cabernet Sauvignon continues to blow me away... even at its price point, it's a bargain.

Oh yeah... forgot something...

Awesome Sox!!!! Gotta love em...

Nice Week...

So, I finally get around to it...

The 1996 Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs is stunning - without question one of the great champagnes this house has ever produced (and that's saying a lot). Still so tightly wound, this baby is full of stony minerals, green apples, citrus rind and a long, long elegant, piercing finish. Bravo! The 1999 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs was good, nothing special - the nose a but richer showing some yeasty lees. The 1996 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs en Magnum was rich, toasty, and elegant... beautiful. The 1990 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs was very far advanced. Almost past it's peak (!?!?!?). An almost oxidized nose (consistant among 2 bottles) with bruised apples... By contrast, the 1985 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs was youthful and vibrant. Nutty with brioche and lemon rind... lots of life. The Delamotte Rose NV was beautiful. Strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb shows the Pinot Noir charachter... this wine needs time. The 2002 Domaine Faiveley Latricieres-Chambertin was mediocre... green stemmy tannins and tons of wood bogged this one down from the start. I didn't get a lot of fruit and think this one might not ever come around (or, I'd be suprised if the fruit was ever able to get out from under the wood and green). The 1993 Domaine Faiveley Latricieres-Chambertin was mature - barnyardy, earthy, wild strawberries... unfortunately, it wasn't overly exciting...

On Tuesday night I had dinner with Steve Smith MW, Managing Director of Craggy Range Winery from New Zealand (southern part of North Island). Craggy is one of the top producers in New Zealand, with some 30-odd single vineyard wines (most of which never make it to the US). I had not tasted his reds before, and I was blown away. But first, we started with some whites. The 2007 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Road Vineyard is classic - grapefruit, gooseberry, a bit of a green herbal quality.. lovely and refreshing (one of my favorites to drink at home, really). The 2006 Craggy Range Chardonnay was beautiful - all natural yeasts and barrel fermentation, this wine is stony and ripe, with elegance... awesome. The reds - 2004 Craggy Range "Le Sol" Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand is otherworldy... quicky became one of my favorite New World Syrahs (outside of the big boys from Penfold's, Henshke, Mitolo, Clarendon Hills, Pax, Araujo). Smoked meat, bacon, black olive, black pepper, black cherries, blueberries, black raspberry - not over done. A bit dusty and earthy - the wine is powerful, but not in a negative way. Beautiful stuff right here... The 2004 Craggy Range "Sophia", Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand is their take on right-bank Bordeaux - 92% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc. The wine is cedary, with graphite, black earth, black berries, black cherries and a long, powerful finish. A baby... I loved these wines. Also at dinner - the 1997 Joly Clos de Coulee de Serrant, Savenierres was over the hill, yes he makes an oxidized style of wine, but this one was too far. Makes you question the winemaking... The 2001 Col d'Orcia "Nearco" Super-Tuscan, from the Pian di Vitino Vineyard near Montalcino was earthy, somewhat ripe, but clearly Italian. Pretty, but towards the end of the evening... The 2004 Hoopes Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville in Napa Valley was overdone... too ripe, too rich, too much alcohol. Really ripe, silky fruit...

Did have the 2004 Plumpjack Cabernet Sauvignon the other night... this is not my favorite vintage of this wine at all...

I'll Get Around To It...

This week... (so far..)
1996 Salon 1999 Delamotte BDB 1996 Delamotte BDB (magnum) 1990 Delamotte BDB 1985 Delamotte BDB Delamotte Rose 2002 Faiveley Latricieres-Chambertin, 1993 Faiveley L-C 2007 Craggy Range SB 2006 Craggy Range Chard 2004 Le Sol Syrah 2004 Sophia 1997 Joly CdCoulee de Serrant 2001 Col d'Orcia Nearco Super Tuscan 2004 Hoopes CS 2004 Plumpjack Cab

Ohhhhhh Baby

Two great ones last night... the 1995 Chateau Latour has a concentrated nose of roasted coffee, graphite, cigar box (finally showing some secondary aromas - it's coming out of it's shell, albeit very, very slowly....), and black earth with a perfect balance of the powerful (but round) tannins, acidity, and layers of fruit. In all honestly, I wouldn't drink this for another 10 years or so. The 2003 Harlan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was showing fabulously last night... certainly the best bottle of this I've tried to date (of this vintage... this wine is still not the 2001 or 2002). A thick nose of dusty earth, anise, black cherries, eucalyptus and black currents... the palate is all concentrated anise at this point. The alcohol shows a bit more of this wine than in previous years. Great stuff, I think I underrated it the last time I tried it, as it seems to have blown off some of the baby fat.

Running...

So little time, so much to do... Tried another bottle of the 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne the other night, and this bottle was in perfect condition... simply stunning wine with hazelnuts, honeysuckle, tons of minerals and an intense, beautiful, finish... what LL CC should be... the 1900 Irmes & Borges Colheita (bottled in 1947) is awesome... a great old port that was much like my previous reviews offer...

Last Night

Finally back to the floor... and some really nice stuff. I'll go through some from the last few weeks as well.

2005 Errazuriz Carmenere Don Maximiano Estate, Aconcagua, Chile - really killer Carmenere. Could be the best I've ever had from Chile. Lovely green herbaceousness with dark extracted black berrier, black pepper and mint. Awesome. The 2005 Alex Gambal Chassagne-Montrachet is butter cookies, hazelnuts and exotic tropical fruits. Really ripe, but also beautifully balanced. The 2001 Marcarini Barolo "Brunate" is a gorgeous example of this cru from the village of La Morra. La Morra tends to be more finesse than pure power (if you want power, look for a single vineyard from Serralunga d'Alba) and this wine is pure dried red fruits with baking spice, roses, violets and a long, long, dusty finish. Awesome stuff... I could drink this every night. The 2004 Domaine Henri Darnat Puligny-Montrachet is good, but not great. A glass full of pebbles and tart green apples... So stony.

Last night was the 1997 TFXT Arachon, Burgenland, Austria - one of the greatest of all Austrian vintages from the greatest red-wine producing region of Austria (50% Lemberger, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Zweigelt, 10% Merlot). This is pure dried cranberry and cloves stuffed in a cigar box and wrapped with wet tobacco leaves... Perfect maturity. Only to be topped by the 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne. It's been a while since I've had this. This bottle didn't have as much fruit as the last, but the minerality and power of this 18 year old white wine is stunning... brings a tear to my eye.

California... The Good, The Bad, and The Really Good

Ok, for those of you who don't want to look through the list below, here are my highlites...

Best Bottles
2004 Sea Smoke "Southing" Pinot Noir - More structured and complete than the 2005 at this point, this wine was simply beautiful. Reminding me of a young La Tache from a great vintage, ripe seductive fruit with a healthy, but perfectly balanced, use of oak. The wine was all finesse - wrapped around a powerful, irresistable core. It was like drinking liquid silk. I could have smelled this wine all night and this was the wine of the trip for most of us.

2000 Gaja Conteisa (Barolo) - very young, but very beautiful. Very Gaja...

1995 Pahlmeyer Red Wine (Magnum) - still such a baby... so young and beautiful.

1991 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Magnum) - mature and beautiful... fabulous stuff right here.

2005 Blackbird - not everyone liked this wine, but to me it was the closest thing to garagiste Pomerol I've ever tried from a California producer. Coffee, Graphite, leather, cocoa and black berries... could be one of the longest lived-wines in California produced right now, if I had to make a guess... needs 5-7 years at a minimum, then I have a feeling these will blossom...

1994 Beringer Private Reserve (Magnum) - this wine has always been great... still is. Young.

2003 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon - a bit lighter in style than the last 2 years, this wine is still the best 03 I've had. Young and primary, but don't give it too much time....

As for the bad and the really good, I'll let you figure it out for yourselves... there was very little bad...

California

Friday, September 21st, 2007 (5)
At the Airport…
2003 Mitolo G.A.M., McLaren Vale, Australia
Roadies…
2001 Numanthia, Toro, Spain
2003 Brancaia "Il Blue" IGT, Tuscany, Italy
At Dinner (Portofino)
2005 A. Rafanelli Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, California
2004 A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon,
Saturday, September 22nd, 2007 (34)
Roadies…
2005 Franz Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner "Rotes Tor" Federspiel, Wachau, Austria
2005 Vincent Girardin Rully Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy, France
2004 Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon
Silver Oak Alexander
2003 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, California
2002 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, California
2003 Twomey Merlot Napa Valley, California
Rochioli
2006 Rochioli Chardonnay, RRV, CA
2005 Rochioli Zinfandel, RRV, CA
Porter Creek
2005 Chardonnay
2004 Fiona Hill Pinot Noir
2004 Reserve Pinot Noir
2003 Timbervine Ranch Syrah
2004 Timbervine Ranch Syrah
2005 Old Vine Zinfandel
Moshin Vineyards
2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley
2005 Lot 4 Pinot Noir
2005 Family Reserve Pinot Noir
2005 Merlot
2005 Bowman Vineyard Zinfandel
2005 Syrah, Santa Clara County
Walter Hansel
2005 Cahill Lane Chardonnay
2005 North Slope Chardonnay
2005 South Slope Pinot Noir
2005 Cahill Lane Pinot Noir
Pre-dinner & Dinner (Cena Luna)
2002? Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah (Sam only…)
1997 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
2005 Roessler "La Briga" Pinot Noir
1985 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
2002 Switchback Ridge Merlot
2000 Gaja Conteisa, Langhe (Barolo)
1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Magnum
2004 Pedestal Merlot, Walla Walla, Washington
2003 Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend
2005 Londer Pinot Noir
1970 Graham's Port
Sunday, September 23rd, 2007 (59)
Roadies (8:39AM)
2005 Lewis Cellars Sonoma Chardonnay
1997 Arrowood Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Williams Selym Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
2004 Porter Creek Timbervine Ranch Syrah
2005 Molly Dooker "Enchanted Path" Shiraz
2002 Arrowood Saralee's Vineyard Syrah
2002 Arrowood Le Beau Melange Syrah
2005 Anderson Oaks Pinot Noir
2004 Lost Canyon Syrah (Corked)
2004 Betz "Pere de Famille" Cabernet Sauvignon
Kenwood (all Jack London)
2004 Merlot
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Zinfandel
2003 Syrah
Arrowood (Chris Conway, host)
2005 Saralee's Vineyard Viognier
2004 Reserve Chardonnay
2002 Saralee's Syrah
2002 Le Beau Melange Syrah
2002 Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon
2003 Monte Rosse Cabernet Sauvignon
2002 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2001 Late Harvest Riesling
2005 Saralee's Vineyard Pinot Blanc
Sbragia Family Wines
2006 Home Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, DCV
2005 Home Ranch Chardonnay, DCV
2005 Gamble Ranch Chardonnay, Napa Valley
2004 Home Ranch Merlot, DVC
2005 Gino Zinfandel, DVC
2004 Andolsen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, DCV
2002 Monte Rosse Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley
2004 Rancho del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
2004 Cimarossa Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
2004 Wall Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder
Holdredge Cellars
2006 Pinot Noir, RRV
2006 Wren Hop Pinot Noir, RRV
2006 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir, RRV
2006 "Mazie Rose" Pinot Noir, RRV
2005 Wren Hop Pinot Noir
2005 Alexander Valley Zinfandel
2005 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel
2005 Syrah RRV
2005 Lover's Lane Syrah
2006 Grace's Cuvee Late Harvest Pinot Gris
2006 Late Harvest Gewurztraminer
Huntington Cellars
2005 Petite Sirah
2004 Nevins & Nevins Vineyard Merlot
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles
2005 Syrah, Alexander Valley
Pre-Dinner & Dinner (Zin)
2003 Mitolo G.A.M.
2001 Pride Cabernet Franc
2002 Pride Merlot
2004 Tor "Rock" Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
1992 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
1991 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
1997 Saintsbury Brown Ranch Pinot Noir Magnum
1998 Opus One
2002 Hundred Acre Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Spatlese
Monday, September 24th, 2007 (45)
Roadies (8:15AM)…
2005 Arrowood Saralee's Vineyard Viognier
2005 Bjornstad Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard
2002 Keenan Mernet Reserve
1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Corley Reserve
Pride Mountain Vineyards
2006 Viognier
2005 Cabernet Franc
2005 Merlot
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
2006 Rock Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (B)
2006 Canyon Ranch East Block Cabernet Sauvignon (B)
2006 Syrah (Medium Toast, Troncais) (B)
2006 Petite Verdot (B)
2006 Rock Arch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (B)
2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (B)
2005 Reserve Claret (B)
Blackbird
2004 Blackbird
2005 Paramour
2005 Blackbird
Shafer
2005 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay
2005 Merlot
2004 One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Relentless
2003 Hillside Select
1996 Merlot
Cliff Lede
2006 Sauvignon Blanc
2005 Claret
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Dr. Crane Cabernet Sauvignon
Monticello
2005 Syrah
2004 Jefferson Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Tietjer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Corley Reserve
2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Pre-dinner and Dinner (Cena Luna)
2003 HdV Chardonnay
1997 BV Georges de Latour
2004 Cheval des Andes
1994 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Toffanelli Charbono
2004 Mitolo Savitar
2002 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
2002 Monticello Reserve Cabernet
2005 Vincent Girardin Rully Vieilles Vignes
2002 Switchback Ridge Merlot
Tuesday, September 25th, 2007 (32)
Roadies…
2005 Vincent Girardin Rully Vieilles Vignes
2005 Londer Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay
2005 Brewer-Clifton Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir
2002 Keenan Mernet Reserve
2002 Roda I Rioja
Martinelli
2005 Tessa Lee Sauvignon Blanc
2005 Chardonnay RRV
2005 Bella Vigna Chardonnay
2005 Bella Vigna Pinot Noir
2004 Terra Felice Syrah
2005 Giuseppe & Luisa Zinfandel
Hartford Court
2005 Four Hearts Chardonnay
2005 Stone Cote Chardonnay
2005 Lands Edge Pinot Noir
2005 Sevens Bench Pinot Noir
2004 Syrah
2005 Zinfandel RRV
2005 Hartford Vineyard Zinfandel
Emeritus (Brice Jones & Don Blackburn)
2005 Pinot Noir
2005 William Wesley Pinot Noir
2007 William Wesley Pinot Noir (B)
Seghesio
2006 Pinot Grigio
2005 Home Ranch Zinfandel
1997 Turley Dogtown Zinfandel Magnum
2004 Ramey Patriarch Cabernet Sauvignon
Pre-Dinner & Dinner (John Ash & Co.)
Krug Grand Cuvee
2005 Pierrot Corton-Charlemagne
2004 Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir
1995 Pahlmeyer Red Blend Magnum
1994 Caymus Special Selection Magnum
1994 Beringer Private Reserve Magnum
2001 Chateau Guiraud Sauternes
2004 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Spatlese
Wednesday, September 26th, 2007 (39)
Roadies…
2006 Seghesio Pinot Grigio
2005 Dutton-Goldfield Rued Chardonnay
Tandem (Greg LaFollette)
2003 Porter-Bass Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
2005 Sangiacamo Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
2005 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, RRV
2005 Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay
2005 Sangiacamo Vineyard Pinot Noir
2005 Van der Kamp Pinot Noir
2005 Peleton Merlot
2004 Talmage Bench/ Don Aldine Vineyard Zinfandel, Medocino
2004 Gabrielle Vineyard Sangiovese, Redwood Valley, Mendocino
John Joseph (lunch, John Joseph & Scott Peterson)
2006 Leo Steen Chenin Blanc (2 bottles)
2004 SP Drummer
2005 John Joseph Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 John Joseph Cabernet Sauvignon
2003 SP Drummer
2002 SP Drummer
2001 SP Drummer
2003 John Joseph Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
Dutton-Goldfield (w/ Dan Goldfield)
2005 Pinot Blanc
2005 Rued Vineyard Chardonnay
2005 Sanchetti Vineyard Pinot Noir
2005 Freestone Vineyard Pinot Noir
2005 Morelli Lane Zinfandel
2004 Cherry Ridge Syrah
2007 McDougal Vineyard Pinot Noir (Tank)
2007 Silvia Vineyard Pinot Noir (Tank)
2007 Morelli Lane Vineyard Chardonnay (B)
2007 Chardonnay (B)
2006 Rued Vineyard Chardonnay (B - Torensaud)
Pre, Post and Dinner (Sante)
1997 Freemark Abbey Bosche Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Rochioli Zinfandel
2004 Clio, Jumilla, Spain
1999 Pride Merlot Magnum
1999 Pride Reserve Claret Magnum
2002 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon
2003 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon
Thursday, September 27th, 2007 (11) - Back To San Franciso
Roadies…
2005 Rochioli Zinfandel
2005 Dutton Goldfield Rued Vineyard Chardonnay
2006 Ferrari Carano Fume-Blanc
Lunch @ Boulevard
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose
2005 Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir (2 bottles)
Dinner @ Perbacco
2004 Anderson Oaks Pinot Noir
2002 Neal Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Pechennino Siri d'Jermu Dolcello di Dogliani
2001 Gaja Dagromis Barolo
On The Roof…
2005 Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend
2001 Gaja Dagromis Barolo
Friday, September 28th, 2007 (2) - Home
In The Limo…
2005 Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 375ml (2 bottles)
2005 Gambal Bourgogne "Cuvee les Deux Papis"
227 Total Wines

California (finally!)

Exhausted

Well... I'm worn out... I promise I'll post again very soon...

Castello Banfi

The 2001 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino is drinking so pure right now... such a baby, but beautiful. Firm tannins, stewed tomatoes, dried earthy cherries. The 1997 Banfi SummuS (Cab, Sangiovese and Syrah) is a powerhouse... full of sotto bosco (see posts from Italy trip), dried leaves, but powerful tannins and a firm backbone. Awesome now, but still needs time. The 1997 Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino rocks... an elegant, sikly-smooth Sangiovese... Only one word to describe it - pure.

Transition

Not sure what happened, but after a very lackluster week at the restaurant, I come home to this... The 1999 Gaja Barbaresco is still such a baby... lovely notes of rose petals, dried cranberries, dried black earth and huge tannins. Very good - very Gaja. The 2004 Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon was over-extracted and too big... the wine was not well balanced with the anise and extraction overpowing any sense of elegance. Not my style. The 2003 Domaine de Paillieres Gigondas is awesome... A slightly browning rim and deep spicy-garrigue/earth notes dominate the dried strawberries and raspberries. Very nice, especially for a 2003 - some of which are disjointed and overly alcoholic. The 1975 Bertani Amarone was stunning... a beautiful example of an incredible wine. Smokey-raisins and stewed prunes and cedary-dried leaves. A beautiful, long complex finish. Awesome, awesome stuff.

I'm Baaaack...

Wow... what a great trip. I'll post all of the wines and a few tasting notes, dining reviews, etc. in the coming days... off to work tonight though...

Well, Well, Well... you can never tell

Ahhh... the 1988 Chateau Lafleur... should be one of the greats from this vintage... but last night, two bottles were decidely not. The first showed signs of burnt toast, and a bitter astringent finish. The second was not much better... though without the burnt toast. Lesson? Be careful where your bottles come from... Also had a corked bottle of 1995 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild... not my night. Two other bottles revealed the wine has slowly started to emerge from its cocoon into a great Mouton... cassis, graphite, dried leaves and rich black cherries come from the glass. Beautiful. The 2003 Lewis Cellars Reserve is as it's been... a wonderful wine that's drinking well now. The 1992 BV Georges de Latour was a huge suprise!!! A beautiful nose of cedar, mint, eucalyptus, dill and sweet vanilla with beautiful black currants. A lovely, long finish. A knockout. The 2003 Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc was a bit hot, lush, and ripe... but still a beautiful wine wine years ahead of it. Cheese, spiced grapefruit, lemon rind and orange peel really came screaming from the glass. Nice!

"There are two categories of cliff divers...

Grand Champion... and stuff on a rock." - unknown

The 2000 Chateau Lagrange (3rd Growth, St. Julien) is beautiful... Most of the time the hype doesn't match up to the reality. Not with the 2000 Bordeaux. These wines are incredibly concentrated - but exceptionally well-balanced. Still just babies. This was a half-bottle, decanted for 3 -4 hours. Coffee, graphite, cigar box, wet tobacco leaves, sweet black currants, ripe black cherries and plums. Beautiful mouthfeel - great balance and structure. Tannins nice and ripe, but still very prodigeous. Wonderful wine... give it another 5 years in 1/2 bottle (!)... 10 in full. The 2001 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux continues to be one of my favorite wines. It's starting to loose some of its weight, but what it's loosing in power, it's gaining in elegance and finesse - two somewhat uncommon traits for a "lowly" Echezeaux. Sweet wild strawberries, clove, cinnamon, all-spice, black turned earth, dried leaves... just a beauty. The nose is amazing... continues my belief in the terroir-driven style of the 2001 vintage. The 1996 Gaja Sperss (Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo) continues to be one of my favorite wines... pure Barolo with its rose-petaled sweet red plums, dried earth and powerful tannins. Again... one of the most impressive Sperss i've ever tasted. I was literally without words last night when I tried it. That says it.

Love It

Clos de Tart may be the single most under-rated Grand Cru Burgundy there is... A monopole, owned entirely by Mommessin, and in turn by Boisset doesn't make flashy, powerful wine. The Grand Cru is instead elgance and finesse - now I'm not claiming it's a Le Musigny, but I'd give it a run against Romanee-St.-Vivant... the 2005 is spectacular, the 2001 is fabulous... a great wine. I love the 2001s... keep your eyes out for Sylvain Pitiot and his Clos de Tart...

Wines from the week...

Enough about beer and fake bottles... how 'bout some real ones? The 1995 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases is starting to open and is a beautiful bottle... lots of cocoa, mocha, black tar, graphite, bacon, black fruit, cedar - still a baby, but a blossoming, tannic, powerful baby... the 1985 Chateau Haut-Brion is as it's been - very nice, with lovely gravel, bacon fat, and smoke on the nose. Not the best HB, but still very good... Three bottles of the 1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine Cornas "les Terrasses"... very smokey with black olives, meat, dried tar, and smoke with a peppery, powerful finish. Beautiful wine. One was not as good as the other two.

The Joy of Cooking

I love to cook... to me, it's a relaxing and creative activity... and it's always better with a glass of wine. We got a beautiful, thick piece of Black Grouper (extremely fresh - I would bet it was caught that morning). Very basic sautee. We had a bottle of the 2004 Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes... too young? Perhaps, but it was pretty with lovely underipe green apples and tons of minerals. A nice, if not great, bottle of wine to enjoy my time in the kitchen...

Beer, the other sparkling beverage

Ok, so aside from an unnatural love for all things grape (other than popsicles... can't stand grape popsicles for some reason)... I also have a love for all things barley. And hops. I love beer. I love the smells, I love the flavors, I love the complexity some of them can have. I love it. I certainly have my favorites, but there is one that I put on a pedestal far above any other beer on this planet... Alaskan Brewing Company's Alaskan Amber. Hoppy, rich, beautiful. The perfect beer. Better than my beloved Anchor Steam. Better than Chimay. If only I could find a few bottles!!!! It's been 8 years since I've had a bottle of this wonderful beer.

Counterfiet Wine

There's a lot of media attention being given to the dispute legendary collectors Bill Koch and Hardy Rodenstock are having amongst, well, themselves. Koch bought several bottles that Hardy had put up at auction that were supposed to be from Thomas Jefferson's collection (Jefferson was one of the great collectors of wine)... Are they? Who knows? Is there evidence that they are not? Yes. Is there evidence that they are? Sort of. Anyone know the answer? Can anyone know the answer? Doubtful. We are unfortunately in a time where the investment in rare bottles of wine is becoming a sport. What the bottle says and what the chemical composition is of the liquid in the bottle has become more important than the beauty and magic of wine itself. Can money be made by collecting then selling increasingly rare bottles? Absolutely. To me, that's not the important question. The real question is, why does money taste better than wine? For me, it's obviously all about the wine. I don't have 1 bottle in my cellar that I wouldn't drink because the memories are much more important than possessing a great bottle or bottles. Enjoying a legendary bottle with friends is more important than bragging rights... after all, isn't being able to say you enjoyed a bottle of 1921 Petrus better than saying I have a bottle, but I'll never open it? I'm not opposed to people selling wine because their tastes changed, but if you buy wines for the simple idea of selling them later, well, what's the fun in that? Have I had bottles that weren't what they said they were - I absolutely have my suspicions about a few. It is an increasing problem as the value of collecting wine grows more important than the value of enjoying wine... we'll see where all of this goes.

Dinner at home

Simple... a bottle of 2005 Carl Roy Sauvignon Blanc... really pretty stuff here. Not overdone, not overly grassy. Just a really nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to go with the Sweet Corn Risotto and Scallops...

Yum

Good wines this week... 1990 Dr. Burklin Wolf "BB" Riesling Auslese Trocken, 2005 Robert Weil Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, 2004 Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, 2004 Morgadio Albarino, 2002 Mommessin "La Forge" Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru, 2001 Hugel Pinot Blanc, 2001 Liverno (Super-Tuscan), a beautiful 2005 Puligny-Montrachet Foliatieres (I'll have to look up the producer... didn't write it down) and a 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes that I'll also have to look up the producer, 2004 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir, 2004 Eroica, 1998 Iron Horse Fairy Tale Cuvee, 2004 Poets Leap Riesling, Sokol Blosser Evolution 9, and a few others that I'll have to look up.

Not Much

To write about... very busy teaching and then away for a few days this week so I probably won't post again until Friday or Saturday...

Ho Hum

Another bottle of the exceptional 2004 Lewis Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon... this is a rock-star. The 2003 ZD Reserve Chardonnay is pretty - if you like oaky, rich, creamy chards. The 1996 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was ok... there was just no depth of flavor - no punch, no "wow". It was completely lacking...

Ughhhh

So it feels like I drank ALL of the liquor in the house last night (not really...), but the 2004 Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono was delicious... ripe, but not overdone. Lovely cassis, pencil lead, black currants and black cherries. Not overly complex, but very, very good. Also had some Johnny Walker Blue... love the stuff. So smooth with just a bit of smokiness. A great blended Scotch.

Christmas in August

Is it August or February? Great wines last night... and they just kept on coming. The 1998 Alvario Palacios "L'Ermita", Priorat is a beautiful wine. Tasted once before, at the uber-lunch at the end of March. Tasted 3 different bottles of this yesterday - one right after opening, and two other bottles about 6 hours later. Loads of anise, cocoa, wild raspberry, exotic spice box, jasmine, and leather... this wine is an earth monster, but clearly still needs a few years to show its full potential. The wine got more and more earthy as the night progressed. The 2001 Marquis de Grinon "Gaudium" Gran Reserva Rioja was ok - not great. In the classicly-light MdG style, this wine had a moderate finish and I don't really have a lot of other positive things to say about the wine. Would I turn town a bottle? No. Would I order one off a list? No. That sums it up. The 1999 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-St.-Vivant "Morey Monge", bottles 00121 and 00123, was excellent. Bottle 00121 was opened and tasted first. This bottle was slightly closed, but a beautiful example of very young great Burgundy. Classic DRC nose of clove, cinnamon, spicy rhubarb, and strawberries came together in the soft elegance that defines RSV. A long, unevolved finish. Bottle 00123 was much more open on the nose, with roses, spice box, clove, cinnamon, strawberries, rhubarb and ripe fruit. This bottle was superior to the first - more expressive in every nuance. Unfortunately, both bottles closed slightly as the night went on. It took a lot of working the wine in the mouth after being opened for 3 hours to really bring out its subtelties. Very, very nice.

The 2003 Masseto was a huge disappointment... I've never loved this wine, and the cocoa-powder and overripe cassis and black cherries were slightly off-balance, and then the elevated alcohol just threw it over the edge. It's often called the "Italian Petrus", but I don't think Petrus would ever make a wine like this. Another bottle of the 1996 Gaja Sperss was identical to the one from the previous night. Outstanding wine. Shows the Serralunga d'Alba power.... Rediculously good... saw one on a wine list in Roma for 125 Euro... kicking myself for not drinking it. The 2000 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (2 different bottles, but both were identical) was the most open and expressive of any 1st or 2nd Growth Bordeaux I've had in a long, long time. The wine is pure cocoa, toast, chocolate, coffee grounds, cassis, black cherries with a lots of black olive (?! - unusual for this wine). Loads of pencil lead on the palate, and wow. What an incredibly long finish. One of the best Lalande's I've had in a long time. Give it at least another 5 years - preferably another 10 - before opening if you have some. Great wine. For me, the wine of the night was the 1999 Tirecul la Gravieres "Cuvee Madame" Monbazilliac (Sauternes-style from Bergerac in SW France). Tasted against the 1997 Chateau Suduiraut (which was good, but had nothing on the Tirecul), the wine was complete caramel popcorn, honeysuckle, honey, toffee, brown-sugared baked apricots, and orange blossom. The nose was powerful and extraordinarily complex, leaving you breathless. I could smell the wine for hours. On the palate, the wine coats your palate, leaving every tastebud searching for another layer. Incredible length. The wine is a baby, but appears much more evolved than it truly is. Give it a few years and drink this incredible wine from this legendary estate. I need a bottle for my own cellar, and I'd put it against Chateau d'Yquem in all but the greatest of vintages....

Forgot

Can't believe I forgot this one!!! The 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico is another one of those stunning wines that gets overlooked in favor of the Bordeaux first growths, the cults from California, and the Burgundies of producers such as Leroy and DRC. In a time when Spain is quickly being equated with "value-wines", the poor Vega is often forgotten. Perhaps its the long aging before release (the Spanish used to (I say used to because while some still do it, the new wave of winemakers releases wines far younger) age your wine for you. It was released when it was ready to drink), or perhaps its because it is so earthy and leathery that it doesn't have a huge appeal, but this is without question the greatest wine estate in Spain, and certainly one of the greatest in the world. The tasting notes haven't changed much, except these two bottles seemed to be more expressive on the nose than just a few months ago... give it time.

Beautiful

Tasted the 2004 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montipulciano... if I haven't said it, the 2004 Tuscan's are fabulous... best in years, at least since 1997. This was full of earth, leather - and power! For a Vino Nobile! But it was simply no match for the 1996 Gaja Sperss... This was the best bottle of this wine that I've had. When I initially smelled it, I was a bit disappointed as the nose seemed closed. 15 minutes took care of that issue... Leathery with roses, spice box, cinnamon, black cherry, red cherries... amazing length and tremendous power. This is a 50 year wine, and we're only on year 11. Give it another 5 at least, or as I did, taste it over the course of 3 or 4 hours, because the last taste was the best... simply beautiful. Could be one of the top 5 wines I've had this year so far.

Good Times

Will post notes, but the 2002 BV Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996 Chateau Lagrange, and the 2003 Harlan Estate (completely underwhelmed, by the way...)

Dinner with Friends

had dinner with 2 other Master Sommeliers last evening and was a lot of fun. Started off with a Campari, Soda, and White Wine (the wine brings a hint of sweetness to the otherwise bitter drink). Had the 1985 Charles Heidseick "Champagne Charlie" and wow was this a good bottle. Nice and rich with hazelnuts, roasted almonds, peach, Granny Smith Apples and hints of brioche. Nice. Moved on to the 2004 Domaine Weinbach Tokay Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence. High RS in this one (thinking 25-30 gl/rs) with super-ripe apricots, orange blossom, and honeysuckle. Very floral and nice and rich. Needs about 15 years. The 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle" took a while to open, but when it finally did, wow! Very meaty, leathery and dusty with raspberries and clove. Not as good as the bottle I had last summer, but still very nice. For dessert, Banyuls.

Custom

Nice night... The 2001 Guigal Cote-Rotie "Brune et Blonde" is awesome... so earthy with notes of wet red meat, black pepper, dried saddle leather and tobacco with black cherries, black berries and raspberry. Very earthy and beautiful. The 2003 D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz is really, really good. Loads of black pepper, baking spices and black fruit. Nice and jammy - like warm raspberry jam. Nicely balanced. The 2003 Guyon Chambolle-Musigny was terribly upsetting... this is not Chambolle. Chambolle is elegance, refinement - the Queen to Vosne-Romanee's King... seductive fruit, elegance tannins, and a silky mouthfeel. This example was hot (high-alcohol), over-ripe and didn't even shed a drop of elegance. Awful. The 2004 Jadot Vosne-Romanee "Les Suchots" on the other hand, was gorgeous. Always one of my favorite Premier Cru Burgundy vineyards (the other being Les Amouresses in Chambolle, Les Brulees in Vosne-Romanee, and Clos St. Jacques in Gevry-Chambertin), this was structured power. Very young, with oak that needs time to integrate (but it's not over-bearing) - the wine is velvet with an incredibly long finish for a 2004. Proves that great winemakers make great wine in any vintage.

Late Night

Had fun though... Henriot Brut is really good... nice and toasty with brioche, pears, apples, and while peach. Beautiful. The Henriot Brut Rose rocks... lovely strawberry, raspberry, anise and a hint of rose petal. Nice and dry, not overly powerful. An elegant rose. The 2006 Pavi Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley was really good... a hint of gold with stale beer. Ripe and rich. The 2003 Nickel & Nickel John Sellinger Cabernet Sauvignon was good, but I've never loved these wines. Lots of cocoa and mulch with anise and mint. And Patron Silver on the rocks with lime is a lovely drink...

No Excuse

No, I haven't written. And, no, I don't have an excuse. Tasted the 2003 Fisher Vineyards "Cameron" Red, Napa Valley today... lots of cocoa powder and anise, with lots of black currant. Nice tannins, but not overpowering. Not 100% sure of the blend, but it tastes like a lot of Merlot. Tasted a few killer German Rieslings yesterday... I'll post later... off to a cocktail party.

Now, Let's Go Run and See...

The 1999 Antinori Guado al Tasso was good, but was not the bottle I had in Tuscany last month... good and very dried leaves, cedar, tobacco and anise. Pretty, but not as spectacular as I would have liked. The 1995 Pol Roger "Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill" is a monster... a great bottle bubbles. So complex and powerful, but a streak of elegance at the same time. Really beautiful. Nice and toasty, but citrus, anise, and apricots are prevalent as well. Exceptional... Enjoyed a wonderful bottle of NV Gosset Brut Rose last night with my wife... this is not a wine to age, but rather enjoy the power in its youth. Strawberries and raspberries with dried leaves... a great pizza wine (!)...

Few More and Tuscany Continued...

I was a judge yesterday in the Florida International Wine Challenge... Tasted quite a few wines, made the palate tired (!)... had a good time though. Though the wines were blind, I know exactly what the wine of the day was... the 1995 Charles Heidsieck "Blanc de Millenieres" was tremendous... a beautiful, toasty, rich Champagne. Really a stunning wine that can be drunk now, or lay it down for a few years for the super hazelnut-butterscotch-toast notes to amplify. Had a few other decent things and some not-so-decent wines. Anyway, enough.

Back to June 7th. After getting out of bed and realizing I had a hangover to recover from, it was off to Banfi. Banfi owns 1/8 of all the land under the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (approx 2850ha). They use French Oak, 250hl stainless tanks and make 85-90% red wine. They also use some American, Russian, Hungarian and some Chestnut wood. They have a unique barrel system as they have some bent by vapor rather than by the heat of the fire... interesting. Mostly 350hl barrels, but some 225 (Bordeaux). Do 1hr of toasting on low heat brings a mid-level toast to the barrels. Slovinean oak = Balsamic Spice in the wine.... They have 28 Poggios (small vineyards) that are blended into their Brunello di Montalcino. (As a side note, he mentioned that under DOCG law the average Poggio must be 6.5ha...) Guess the DOCG board hasn't heard of, or doesn't want to acknowledge, micro-climates. The single vineyard Poggio all'Oro is 27ha and rich in limestone w/ clay.

The 2005 Florus Moscadello was sweet, clean, 75gl/rs 14%abv with no mutage. 30% new FO, Clove, cinnamon, honeysuckle, beeswax, orange rind, apricots, orange blossoms. Needs time to come together, but delicious now. Had a special lunch at the restaurant...

The 2006 Fontanelle Chardonnay was rich with Granny Smith Apple, Ripe Anjou Pear, a hint of wet stones, apricots, honeysuckle, with toast (6 months in small FO). Had with Prosciutto e Melone. The 2003 Summus (40% CS, 20% Syrah, 40% Sangiovese) was medium-plus bodied with nose of anise, black cherries, black pepper, very dry tannin and dusty, dried fruits. Had with Tagliatelle con ragout. The 2001 Poggio Alle Mura "Brunello di Montalcino" Riserva (this is a blend of single-vineyards). Had staining tears, a light-purple to orange and brown rim, with m+ intensity. Dried leather, black cherries, black currants, raspberry, turned earth, rosemary, clove, cinnamon, very tight, m+ tannin. "Great wine. Big wine". Served with Bistecca di maiale con patate arroso e fagiolini (Cinta Sires - the breed of pig). The 1995 Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was sick... 100% Small FO, almost opaque with notes of suppoi (sotto bosco), black olive, cedar, sweet cherries, cranberry, black currant, dried fruits, m+ tannin - less fruit driven. Loved it so much I brought a bottle home!

From there, it was a short (tongue in cheek here... I was driving 160-170km/hr) 2 hour drive to Bolgheri and Tenuta San Guido (better known as the producer of Sassicaia). A completely different experience than the overly-commercial Banfi. Bolgheri is approx, 6000ha, of which 1% is vineyards. Started in 1968, there are now approx 200,000 bottles of Sassicaia produced each year (compare to 10-20,000cs of Margaux, Latour, Lafite), 150,000 bottles of Guidalberto, and 150,000 of La Difese. The soil is sand with limestone and clay. Sassicaia means "Place with a lot of stones". They do 2wks maceration on the skins, they perform remontage, and use only natural yeasts. They do a quick Malo in stainless steel. The building itself is nothing more than a barn... very rustic, very Sassicaia. Use a touch of american oak on the Guidlaberto, otherwise 30% new on Sassicaia for 24mos, Medium Toast, Allier forest. Racked every 6 months. They use Cordon Spur as their trellis system.

The 2002 La Difese IGT (only sold in Europe), 70% CS, 30% Sangiovese showed soft raspberry (black), black currents, blackberries, black tar, black olive, clove, cinnamon, and cassis. Very good. Retails around 50 Euro. The 2005 Guidalberto (45,45 Merlot/CS, 10% Sangiovese) is a blockbuster... certainly the greatest Guidalberto I've ever tasted, notes of black currant, black cherries, cocoa, dried earth, dried leaves, soft & pretty with a long, cassis & black pepper finish. Beautiful. The 2004 Sassicaia was closed as closed can be, with almost nothing showing on the nose... black cherry, black currant, cinnamon, clove "woody), cassis, cloves, vanilla, cinnamon, long and refined with m+ tannin. This wine is going to be great when it opens... the 2006 Sassicaia was the biggest wine of the day. Black cherry, m+ tannin, black currant, cassis, cocoa, very long... twiggy.
We then went into the vineyards where we learned that they have a problem with Oidium, as they are so close to the sea If you look really hard, you can see the water in the background... was a slightly cloudy day. He told us you can usually see Corsica(!). Alas, all we saw was the footprint of a cingale (wild boar), who like to eat the grapes. Well, this concludes the winery visits (and true working portion) for the trip... I'll go into the remaining wines/etc I had while on vacation another day...