Monday, July 03, 2006

1976 (completed)

I know I need to write details of some of the wines I've tasted lately, but I'd rather do this... my own version of the 1976 Paris Tasting. I put together a list of the best wines I've had from different regions around the world... and I'll face them off against each other... My beef with the most recent Paris tasting was that it was done with very old (and many I would presume, very tired) wines. In the last 30 years the wine industry has changed so much that a modern tasting of modern styles of wines would be like comparing apples and oranges, unless you're using a freakish vintage like 2003. First, the best Bordeaux wines I've ever had are... 1961 Chateau Latour, 1982 Chateau Latour, 1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 1982 Chateau Cheval-Blanc, 1990 Chateau Margaux, 1982 Chateau Pichon-Lalande, 1955 Chateau Haut-Brion, 1975 Chateau Petrus, 1990 Chateau Latour, and 1989 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion. Compare those to the best California Cabs or Blends I've ever had... 1968 BV Georges de Latour, 2001 Harlan Estate, 1997 Bryant Family, 1997 Colgin Herb Lamb, 2001 Shafer Hillside Select, 1985 Joseph Phelps Backus, 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia, 1991 Caymus Special Selection, 1987 Dominus, 1997 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon. Which list is better? Overall, Bordeaux. But the top? 2001 Harlan Estate. So, California wins the race, but looses the competition. Now, lets move on to the rest of the world. Best Dry Whites? 1990 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 1988 DRC Montrachet, 1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, 1999 Kistler Vine Hill Chardonnay, 1999 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum, 2001 Zind Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Grand Cru Rangen Clos Saint-Urbain, 2003 Didier Dagueneau "Silex" Pouilly-Fume, 1996 J. Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche, 1997 Franz Hirzberger Gruner Veltliner Rotes Tor Smaragd Wachau. Notice anything? All European, less one. Best Pinot Noirs? 1990 J.F. Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1985 DRC Echezeaux, 1989 DRC Romanee-Saint-Vivant, 1976 Leroy Romanee-Saint-Vivant, 1996 Kistler Cuvee Catherine Pinot Noir, 2005 Kosta Browne Kanzler Vineyard*, 1990 Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanee "Les Suchots", 2002 St. Innocent Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, 1994 Rochioli East Block Pinot Noir, 1999 Archery Summit Arcus Estate Pinot Noir. Now this one is decieving as I prefer Burgundy pretty much hands down to any other Pinot-producing region. The problem is that the great Burgundies are so few and far between. So, there we are. I will say that the 1996 Kistler Cuvee Catherine is without question the best new-world Pinot Noir I've ever come across. It's simply amazing. But no where near as stunning as the JF Mugnier Musigny VV was... incredible. How about Syrah-based wines? 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, 1990 Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne, 1999 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque, 1990 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne, 2002 Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Syrah, 2002 Shirvington Shiraz (I hate the wine, but it is among the best I've ever had), 2003 Mitolo GAM, 1998 Penfolds Grange, 1982 Penfolds Grange, 2001 Torbreck Run Rig, 1998 Henschke Hill Of Grace Shiraz. Now you're starting to see a little bit of a new world influence. I do, in fact, mostly prefer Grange. I am much more of an "old school" Syrah/ Shiraz style guy. The best wine in the bunch? The 1998 Grange. Champagne/Sparkling Wine? Let's drop the Sparkling Wine... it's all Champagne... 1990 Krug (magnum), 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil, 1990 Dom Perignon Rose (magnum), 1981 Dom Perignon Rose, 1985 Dom Perignon, 1985 Perrier-Jouet Rose Belle Epoque, 1985 Louis Roedered Cristal (magnum), 1988 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill, 1996 Dom Perignon, 1976 Dr. Thannisch Bernkastler Doctor Riesling Sekt. The best? For brut, it's the 1990 Krug. For rose, it's the 1985 Perrier-Jouet Rose. Sweet Wines? 1998 Wolfberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Rangen SGN, 1998 Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 1990 Chateau d'Yquem, 1989 Chateau d'Yquem, 1953 Chateau d'Yquem, 2001 Chateau Rieussec, 2000 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Hors Choix SGN, 1990 Herm Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannsholle Riesling Auslese, 1964 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Kronenberg feinste Auslese Riesling, 1976 J.J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese. And, well, there you have it. Sauternes, Alsace, and Germany. Kracher almost made it from Austria, but that's about it. Now, the best of the rest. 1959 Inglenook Charbono, 2000 Hatton Estate Tahi (New Zealand), 1986 Penfold's 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, 1990 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998 Les Cailloux Cuvee Centenaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2001 Almaviva (Chile), 1982 Sassicaia, 1998 Gaja Costa Russi, 1999 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo, 1990 Ornellaia. Best of this lot is hands down the 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico. So, you put all of that together, and what do you get? What the Paris tasting should have been was a comparison of those who make wine to drink young and those who make wine to age. My palate favors an older wine, or a wine made in a style that is more food-friendly and less fruit and alcohol driven. A great wine should be a number of things, but it should first and foremost be balanced. There is not one unbalanced wine in the list above. They are, what I would consider, to be the best of the best. While I know there are many, many other great wines out there (and I can't wait to try them), I know that my favorites will have that same characteristic. So, the best of the list? The top 5? 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico, 2001 Harlan Estate, 1990 JF Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1990 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne, and 1982 Chateau Latour. I'll let you figure out my favorite today...

1 comment:

Alex C said...

Andrew, This is a cool post. How did your competition go, if you do not mind recounting it? Hope all is well with you in PB. We are heading out to Dry Creek and maybe Russian River valleys next weekend. Do you have any favorite? My wife has been enjoying Fritz. They are primarily Zin specialist, but are doing a nice Zin Rose as well as a Late Harvest and their Rodgers Reserve 2000 Old Vines was a show stopper.

All the best, Alex